Todays Pet

Ferrets: Did You Know?

2009-10-10T11:21:00.000-07:00

When it comes to these enjoyable pets, did you know that:

Male ferrets are called "Hobs"
Neutered male ferrets are called "Gibs"
Vasectomised males are "Hoblets"

Female ferrets are called "Jills"
Spayed females are "Sprites"

Ferrets less than one year old are called "Kits"
A family group of ferrets is a "Business"

Animal Prosthetics – Giving Pets a Whole New Life

2009-06-25T14:21:00.000-07:00

When our pets are injured and lose a limb, their worlds no longer come to a crashing end like they did only a few short years ago. These days, technological advancements and the kindness of man have made it possible for our pets to live long, productive lives despite serious injury.

These sites will attest to man’s love for animals and the courage of our pets.

World's Most Incredible Animal Prosthetics
http://www.oddee.com/item_96482.aspx

Uzonka the Stork
http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1655711,00.html

Fake Fins, Beaks and Paws
http://www.time.com/time/photogallery/0,29307,1655147,00.html

Animal Prosthetics: A Leg Up on a Bad Break
http://www.mentalfloss.com/blogs/archives/14968

oandp.com - Orthotics and Prosthetics Info
http://www.oandp.com/articles/2005-06_05.asp

Prosthetic Body Parts for Animals
http://www.popularmechanics.com/science/health_medicine/4274626.html

Ortho Pets
http://www.orthopets.com/

You Tube – Animal Orthocare
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y346xbWEIOE

YouTube - World Report : Animal Prostheticshttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FRJ1fSHJLk

See the article "Ya Gotta Meet Molly!" for how a prosthesis helped this pony with her life.

Ya Gotta Meet Molly!

2009-06-10T21:59:00.000-07:00

It’s always great when you can open up your email and find a story that makes you smile – this is one of those that will warm your heart.

Molly’s a grey speckled pony who was abandoned when Hurricane Katrina hit southern Louisiana. She spent weeks on her own before finally being rescued and taken to a farm where abandoned animals were stockpiled. While there, she was attacked by a pit bull terrier and almost died. Her gnawed right front leg became infected and her vet went to Louisiana State University for help.

Unfortunately, LSU was overwhelmed and since Molly was a welfare case there didn’t appear to be a happy ending to this story – until surgeon Rustin Moore met her. He saw that the pony was careful to lie down on different sides so she didn't get sores and how she allowed people to handle her. Molly protected the injured leg and constantly shifted her weight so the good limb wasn’t overworked. She was a smart pony with a serious survival ethic.

Moore agreed to remove her leg below the knee and a temporary artificial limb was built – but it’s when Molly walked out of the clinic that her story really began.

According to Moore, Molly was a one-in-a-million patient. “She’s tough as nails, but sweet … and she was willing to cope with the pain”, he said. Molly made it obvious that she understood she was in trouble. And Moore says she’s lucky to have a devoted owner who’s committed to provide the daily care over her lifetime.

Molly's story turns into a parable for life in post-Katrina Louisiana. The little pony gained weight and her mane finally felt a comb. A human prosthesis designer built her a leg. “The prosthetic has given Molly a whole new life”, says Allison Barca, Molly's regular vet.

And Molly asks for it. She will put her little limb out and let you know that she wants you to put it on. Sometimes she wants you to take it off as well. And at times Molly will get away from Barca. “It can be pretty bad when you can't catch a three-legged horse”, she laughs.

Most important of all, Molly has a job now. Kay, the rescue farm owner, started taking Molly to shelters, hospitals, nursing homes, and rehabilitation centers. Anywhere she thought that people needed hope. Wherever Molly goes, she inspires people and has a good time doing it.

“'It's obvious to me that Molly had a bigger role to play in life”, Moore said. She survived the hurricane, she survived a horrible injury, and now she’s giving hope to others”.

Barca concluded, “She’s not back to normal, but she's going to be better. To me, Molly could be a symbol for New Orleans itself”.

One picture shows Molly wearing her most recent prosthesis. The other shows the ground surface she stands on which has a smiley face embossed in it. Now Molly leaves behind a smiley hoof-print wherever she goes.

See the article "Animal Prosthetics - Giving Pets a Whole New Life" for more stories and video clips on animals and their fantastic new lives with artificial limbs.

Ferrets & Flea Collars – a Bad Combination

2009-05-22T11:19:00.000-07:00

Never use a flea collar on your pet ferret. Poisons contained in a flea collar are far too strong for these pets. In addition, your ferret could get out of its collar and chew on it – and digesting the collar’s poison could very well be fatal.

If your pet ferret comes down with a case of the fleas, a good suggestion would be to use a remedy like Advantage. With this product, you only need to use a couple of small drops applied between the ferret’s shoulder blades every month. It will kill the fleas that are on your pet as well as those in its habitat. A monthly repeat is all you need to safely keep your ferret rid of fleas.

Homemade Toys for Your Pet Rat

2009-05-13T11:57:00.000-07:00

I came across this website for rats and found some very interesting material. In particular, there are sections for making your own homemade rat toys. The articles are done with detailed plans and pictures that you can follow. This makes an economy based alternative to buying toys from the pet store.

Site: Rat-Info.com

Rat Houses:
-- Layered House
-- Plastic House
-- Wood House

Bridges & Tunnels:
-- Tunnel – Bridge
-- Hanging Fabric Bridge

Other Accessories:
-- Climbing Ropes
-- Digging Box
-- Hammock
-- Maze

Source: Rat-Info
http://rat-info.com/Homemade_Rat_Toys.html

Degu Website References and Links

2009-05-08T08:03:00.000-07:00

For some more information on the charismatic little Degu, I'd suggest the following sites which contain nice material and pictures of the Degu.

Degutopia
http://www.degutopia.co.uk/

This is an excellent site for any Degu lover to visit. They have fun stuff to do, interesting and useful info on Degus, plus a forum. Highly recommended.

Degu World
http://www.myhomezone.co.uk/degus

Nice site, easy to use and has good info.

Degu Rock
http://www.degurock.moonfruit.com/#

A small site, but has good information and reading.

Petite Paws Exotics
http://www.members.shaw.ca/petitepaws/degu.html

Site caters to a lot of different small pets and has a good section on the Degu.

The Degu Habitat

2009-05-02T07:34:00.000-07:00

As adorable as our sweet little Degus can be, there are two things that you have to know about them – and they probably don’t tell you this at the pet store: they’re destructive and they’re messy.

Be forewarned and construct your new pet’s habitat accordingly.

The Degu Home:

Your pets love to climb, so the enclosure should have at least 2 levels with ladders. If the home is a cage, then it should be metal and not plastic (including the base), or they’ll have it chewed up before morning.

Wire cages, such as those used for chinchillas, work well and provide good ventilation. Make sure the floor is solid and not wire meshed. Prolonged contact with wire flooring may cause a problem know as “Bumblefoot”. (See more on this ailment under “Proper Care & Handling of Your Degu”)

Bedding & Nests:

Cardboard and wooden boxes make good nests which your pet Degu will enjoy lining with shredded newspaper.

Any bedding used for pet rats will work well for the Degu. Most of this bedding purchased from pet stores is made to keep odors down. You can also use an absorbent like Carefresh (much like sawdust) to minimize smells.

Dust Baths:

Rolling in the dust is a way Degus clean themselves. These can be messy, so place the dust bath in a room that’s easily cleaned, like the bathroom. Sand works great for these baths and it keeps their coat clean.

If you want to have the dust bath inside their enclosure, then you could try getting a ceramic bowl with a roof on it from a garden shop. These work well and keep the mess down.

Toys and Accessories:

Chew Toys:
Your Degu’s teeth will continue to grow all their lives, so you have to provide some chew toys that will keep their front teeth trimmed.

Whatever toys you give your pet Degu to chew on must be non-toxic. These toys don’t have to be expensive and could be something as simple as wooden clothes pegs attached to the bars of their pen.

Try using something called “Bog Wood” which is available from most garden centers that have an aquatic section. It’s a very dense, hard wood which works well for keeping your pets teeth short.

Tunnels:
Degus like to find places to hide, so tunnels are just the thing. Large plastic pieces of drainage pipe work well except that they’ll probably have it destroyed in no time. Try a hard wood like bamboo that you can hang inside their cage. They can run through it, hide inside, or chew it. Yes, this provides a dual purpose – tunnel and chew stick.

Exercise Wheels:
Your pet will enjoy playing on these wheels. When you do get one, make sure that it’s a type where they can’t get feet and tails caught in the bars. Again, if it’s plastic, they will have it destroyed in no time.

Pictures courtesy of: Sofia Högberg
Website: http://estrellados.webs.com/index.htm

Proper Care & Handling of Your Degu

2009-04-27T08:01:00.000-07:00

Before buying a Degu, you should make sure that your local veterinarian is comfortable handling this relatively new breed of pet.

One of the common problems with Degus is their susceptibility to health problems. Because the pet Degus in North America originated from a small group brought over from Chile in the 1960’s, there was much inbreeding and these small animals are still suffering the ill effects of that.

Tumors:
As your pet ages, tumors can result. Any strange lumps or skin formations should be brought to your vet’s attention.

Teeth:
Your pet Degu may develop something called “slobbers” which should be self explanatory. This is caused by either the front teeth (incisors) not being properly trimmed and growing too long, or the cheek teeth getting sharp edges from uneven wear.

When this happens, the Degu will have a problem chewing because their mouth doesn’t close completely and they’ll drool. It’s an easy thing to fix and your veterinarian will either trim the front teeth, or file down the sharp edges of the cheek teeth.

Preventative measures: Give your Degu things they can gnaw on to keep the length of their teeth proper.

The Degu’s teeth are normally yellowed from the orange and red pigments (carotenoids) found in many plants which causes the enamel of Degu teeth to turn colour. The carotenoids are linked to a healthy immune system, so an adult Degu with pale teeth is usually in poor condition due to a bad diet and weakened immune system.

Picking up your pet Degu:
The best way to pick up your pet Degu is by scooping them up with two hands. Never pick up your pet by the tail. The skin peels back very easily (called degloving) and is painful. When this happens the tail will have to be amputated.

The sounds your Degus make:
Degus communicate with many different noises:

-- Irritated: A chattering of the teeth with a grinding motion. This is telling you that they don’t particularly like what’s happening right now.

-- Scared: A series of rapid squeals along with a mad dash for some place safe. The frightened Degu will keep making the squeaks until they fell comfortable again. The squeaks could come in 10-30 second intervals.

-- Happy: A warbling noise that sounds like birds chirping. You may very well hear this sound when you’re stroking your pet and the Degu is enjoying it.

Bumblefoot:
This ailment is usually associated with wire-floor cages, but this is not necessarily the only cause. Bumblefoot in Degus can also be a result of genetic factors and/or unsanitary living conditions.

The colourful name Bumblefoot comes from the “bumbles” or lesions that accompany a swelling of the foot pad. This is a very painful disorder and if left untreated can lead to amputation or death. These infections can be treated with antiseptics and antibiotics.

Diet & Nutrition for Your Degu

2009-04-23T16:33:00.000-07:00

If you put it in front of a Degu, he’ll eat it! This pet will eat anything, including sugar and toxic substances. They’re greedy eaters, so proper diet and nutrition is exceedingly important for the health of these pets.

Degus feed on grasses and browse the leaves of shrubs. Their feeding rate is controlled by the rate at which they can digest this relatively low quality food. Like rabbits, this pet will also chew on their own feces to extract more nutrition from what it’s eaten. This habit also helps to maintain a healthy stomach function when food is scarce.

Feeding your pet Degu isn’t like feeding other small pets like hamsters or gerbils. Degus get diabetes if fed fatty, starchy or sweet foods, so seeds and dried fruit aren’t a recommended part of their diet,

SUGAR WARNING:

Do not feed your pet Degu sugar - the importance of this cannot be stressed enough. Degus can’t break down sugar like most rodents and they will develop diabetes quickly – and that’s fatal. Fruit contains sugar, so keep that out of their diet except as noted more in the sections below.

BAD THINGS TO EAT:

-- Cheese: This product is high in fat, salt and protein that your pet Degu cannot digest properly.

-- Rat diet: A rat’s diet is high in protein which can’t be digested properly by a Degu. And this diet doesn’t contain vitamin C which is suggested for a Degu’s diet.

-- Yogurt drops: Often used as training aids, Yogurt drops contain sugar and should not be given to your pet on a regular basis.

-- Molasses: Another sugar based product that must be avoided. Molasses is often added to animal feeds, so check the feed contents of any products you buy.

-- Seeds and dried fruit: Since Degus should not be fed a diet containing fats, starches, or sweet foods, anything with seeds and dried fruit is out.

GOOD THINGS TO EAT:

-- Greens: A good diet for you pet can include lots of greens - lettuce, dandelion and endive. Degus seem to enjoy the bitter tasting leaves. Timothy hay is also good for these pets.

-- Oats: Try mixing small amounts of natural oats with their temporary diet. It’s are a good source of energy, but don’t overfeed your pet Degu on this unless you ready to give them plenty of exercise afterwards.

-- Vegetables: You’ll find that your pets probably aren’t great fans of fresh vegetables, but they will eat green beans, carrots, spring onions and small amounts of Savoy cabbage. Also try cauliflower, broccoli stems and some cubed sweet potato. All of these contain essential nutrients for your pet.

-- Rabbit or Guinea Pig pellets: Pellets are best, but if you do get your pet the mix you will have to remove any sweet corn, Locus beans, and any sunflower seeds. Also check the ingredients for any seeds and dried fruits that have to be extracted.

-- Chinchilla pellets: Same as the Rabbit and Guinea feed, use the pellets and not the mix. Chinchilla mixes normally contain dried fruits that have to be taken out.

-- Vitamin C: It’s suggested that vitamin C become a part of a Degu’s healthy diet.

SOME FAVOURITE TREATS:

-- Cereals: Crisped rice, puffed rice and bits of cornflakes all make good treats and training aids for your pet.

-- Crackers: Pieces of cracker or a crisp break can also be used, but check the labels for salt content. Go with the salt free brands.

-- Fruit: Occasionally - it is possible to feed your Degus the occasional bit of fruit even though it contains sugar. Research has shown that these pets can metabolise sugar to a certain extent. Again – sparingly is the key word.

-- Apple: Tiny bits of apple feed no more than once a week are okay, but the quantity has to be kept small. Degus seem to really like apples.

-- Sweet Potatoes: The skin is toxic to Degus, so they must be peeled. They do not have to be cooked. Use small cubes and feed them this treat only a couple times a week. Too many potatoes can create intestinal bloating if your pet is feed to many.

WATERING NEEDS:

You can use either tap water or bottled water for your pet Degu. The chlorine content in tap water does not seem to adversely affect them. Recommended vitamin C be added in soluble form to their water since this supplement is difficult to find in anything else.

WATER CONTAINER:

Any drink bottles that you use for your Degus will probably end up being chewed to bits by these frisky little pets. If you’re using a cage, mount your bottle from the outside so only the spouts sticks through.

The Degu: Our Newest Pet

2009-04-22T07:06:00.000-07:00

The Degu (pronounced day-goo) is a relative newcomer to the North American pet scene. Introduced here in the 1960’s, this rodent is a native of Chile and was imported for the purposes of diabetic research. Degus get diabetes quite easily if fed the wrong diet and this made them popular in the medical community.

But their popularity as a pet exploded once people became familiar with these bubbly little characters. With personality plus and an intelligence that makes them easy to train, the Degus soon found themselves in the hearts of pet owners around the country.

They remain classified as an exotic pet and are still difficult to find in pet stores. Sometimes called a Brush-Tailed Rat, the Degu is a closer relative to the Guinea Pig and Chinchilla than it is to the family of rats.

Degus are not simple pets to keep. They are extremely social and require a lot of attention and a large habitat to roam in. Each pet Degu has its own distinct characteristics and their personalities develop the more you interact with them.

General appearance of the Degu:

-- Commonly have brown fur, but genetic mutations and intentional breeding have produced white, cream, black, blue and tan coloured variations of the Degu pet;
-- Degus will normally grow to the size of a rat. Adults will become 15cm (6 inches) for the head and body, with an additional 10cm (4 inches) for the tail;

-- Their weights can reach 300 grams (10 ounces, or half a pound);
-- Stocky and strong, the Degu has short legs, with very powerful back ones to allow them a speedy escape from predators.

Disposition and temperament:
-- Degus are gentle pets and will act much like dogs once they’re used to being handled;
-- These animals are easy tempered and will go out of their way to avoid biting which makes them good pets for children;
-- These pets will often groom their owners by a gentle nibbling action;
-- They can give a defensive bite if they feel threatened, or startled;
-- Bubbly personalities.

Comparison to other rodents:
-- Degus are diurnal which means they are active during the day as compared to the normal nocturnal ( active at night) habits of most rodents and small animals;
-- The average life span of this pet is 5-9 years, but some have been know to live for as many as 12 years in captivity;
-- Possessing a high intelligence, the Degu is an easily trained pet;
-- The Degu has a tendency to gnaw much more than other rodent pets and will readily chew through the plastic bottomed cages found in pet stores.

Sociable traits of the Degu:
-- Degus are highly social animals and live in groups of up to 100 in the wild;
-- If left alone, these pets will suffer in health due to boredom and loneliness.
-- Single Degus will have a significantly shorter lifespan than those maintained in a social environment;
-- Consider getting two pet Degus unless you’re prepared to spend a great deal of time the one pet;
-- If buying a pair, it is suggested that you get 2 of the same gender;

General Characteristics:
-- Although pet Degus can tolerate the cooler temperatures, they don’t take well to extremes of heat and cold, or damp conditions;
-- Pet Degus like to sunbath, but need shaded areas to get out of the sun when they want;
-- Degus reach sexual maturity at about 7 weeks of age for males and 12 weeks for the female. -- It’s important to segregate the sexes at this age rather than waiting until they’re 4-5 months old;
-- They reach full size at about 54 weeks (just over a year) when their body weight becomes stable and their growth and development has stopped;
-- These pets have a wide range of communication techniques with an elaborate vocal repertoire;
-- Affectionate, but not cuddly. This pet doesn’t sit still for very long and enjoys being able to run around and explore its surroundings;
-- It will taste anything it finds of interest, including fingers, toes and furniture;
-- Degus are burrowing animals. In the wild they will have a communal dig where quite large and elaborate burrows are developed through a group effort;
-- Female Degus within a group will nurse one another’s offspring;
-- Being a rodent, the Degu’s teeth will grow throughout their lives. These teeth are naturally orange due to the ‘carotenoids’ (orange and red pigments) found in many plants.

Overall, Degus make great little companions. Their easy going personalities and humorous antics make this animal a great pet for a loving family.

Picture courtesy of: Sofia Högberg
Website: http://estrellados.webs.com/index.htm

Special thanks to: Degutopia
http://www.degutopia.co.uk

3 Legged Dog Saves Terrorized Family!

2009-04-08T19:44:00.000-07:00

Every once in a while a story comes along that just makes you feel good. This is one of them.

Calamity Jane is a Golden Retriever who lives in Fort Worth, TX. About five weeks ago, Calamity was found on the side of the road suffering from a gun shot wound. She survived, but required the amputation of her front left leg.

Two weeks ago a family and some of their friends found themselves victims of a violent home invasion. Held at gunpoint and pistol-whipped while the intruders ransacked the house, the hostages feared for their lives.

For whatever reason, one of the thugs flipped on the outside light and this caught the attention of neighbouring Calamity Jane. Seeming to sense that something was wrong, she began barking loudly. Believing that there were people outside with the dog, the robbers panicked and fled the home with 3-legged Calamity Jane hot on their heels!

Calamity gave chase, but never did catch up to the hoodlums. But she had put an end to the 45 minutes of terror her neighbouring family had endured.

The story doesn’t end here, though. While having her leg amputated, the vet discovered that our 3-legged heroin was pregnant.

Calamity Jane is now the proud new mom of seven puppies.

A few days ago somebody made a comment that having an animals limbs amputated was cruel and inhumane. He felt that this would seriously reduce the pet’s quality of life and shouldn’t be done.

Maybe he should meet our 3-legged Calamity Jane!

Dogs: the Truth about Teacup Breeds

2009-04-03T20:10:00.000-07:00

You’re always hearing somebody talk about Teacup dogs and how they’d love to have one of these pets, but is there really such a breed in the canine world?

The term 'Teacup' is not recognized or endorsed by any of the major Canine Associations such as the AKC (American Kennel Club) or the British KC (Kennel Club). It’s purely a descriptive term for a Toy dog which might, or might not, be smaller than the official size standard. Whether or not this term is recognized by the various Associations, people obviously like using it and the phrases Teacup dog and Teacup puppy are here to stay!

Are Animals Just Animals?

2009-03-29T21:50:00.000-07:00

Hurricane Hanna hit South Carolina on September 7, 2008 as baby white tigers Mitra and Shiva were being born. According to Dr. Bhagavan, founder of TIGERS (The Institute of Greatly Endangered and Rare Species), the mother became stressed after their sanctuary flooded and it was necessary to separate the cubs for their own safety.

And this is where a long time resident of TIGER came to the rescue. Anjana took on the role of caring for the two cubs, becoming surrogate mom and playmate to the baby tigers.

This, in itself, isn’t remarkable. But the fact that Anjana is a two year old female chimpanzee is!

Animal keeper, China York, has looked after Anjana since she was born and they’ve been inseparable ever since. Anjana assists China in caring for baby animals all the time and has helped with leopards, lions and orangutans. “She has just finished raising four lions and they were inseparable” says Dr Bhagavan. “Anjana’s a great assistant.”

The loving chimp gives ‘her’ cubs a bottle, lies with them and acts as the doting mother. Look into Anjana’s eyes and see the love.

This has to make you wonder – are animals just animals?

The Institute of Greatly Endangered and Rare Species (TIGER) is a wildlife education organisation, dedicated to promoting global conservation with informative, educational and entertaining interactive programs.

Reference: Mail Online
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1076572/Pictured-Two-white-tiger-cubs-surrogate-mum--Anjana-chimpanzee.html

Pictures: Barry Bland / Barcroft Media

Degus – Taking the Pet Scene by Surprise

2009-03-20T13:27:00.000-07:00

Degus - the newest addition to the pet scene. With intelligence that makes them easy to train and a bubbly personality that’s irresistible, the Degu is sure to quickly become one of our favourite pets.

Stay tuned for more information on these special little pets.

Scorpion Links

2009-03-13T10:15:00.000-07:00

Wikapedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scorpion

Scorpions (Desert USA)
http://www.desertusa.com/oct96/du_scorpion.html

University of Arizona
http://ag.arizona.edu/pubs/insects/az1223

Scorpion Picture Guide
http://www.scorpionpictureguide.com

About.com - Exotic Pets
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/scorpions/a/emperorscorpion.htm

Popular Types of Pet Scorpions

2009-03-13T09:52:00.000-07:00

You really don’t want to pick up a scorpion from the wild and bring it home. Some scorpions have venom more powerful than a bee sting and in some species the venom can be lethal. The following is a basic guide to the popular types of pet scorpions.

AFRICAN BURROWING SCORPIONS

As the name indicates, these scorpions are native to Africa and dig long, deep tunnels in fairly hard packed ground. There are approximately 50 species of African burrowing scorpions ranging in size from 2.5 to 6 inches long. These scorpions are colourful critters with stocky builds and large, broad pincers.

African Burrowing scorpions are very aggressive and will sting if cornered, or restrained. There venom ranges from mild to strong and the pain from its sting is very intense, lasting up to 48 hours.

This species of scorpion is best left to the experienced collector.

A 10 gallon terrarium, or aquarium, tank with a heat pad on the bottom of one side will serve nicely as its home. There should be 3 to 5 inches of eco-earth, bed-a-beast, or potting soil as ground cover. Bark, or driftwood, will create a nice looking habitat and provides good hide areas. A shallow water bowl and gut loaded crickets, or cockroaches, will comprise this scorpions diet.

ASIAN FOREST SCORPIONS

With a native habitat ranging from India to Malaysia, this scorpion is a large, heavy, black creature that can grow up to 5 inches long. These scorpions normally live on the surface under rocks and logs, but will burrow. They closely resemble the Emperor scorpions and are sometimes sold as such in pet stores.

This scorpion is much more aggressive than emperor scorpions.

They can be kept in groups, but it’s not recommended due to their aggressive disposition. An Asian Forest scorpion’s venom is mild and they are a common pet.

A 10 gallon aquarium or terrarium with an under-tank heat pad on one side of the tank is a suitable home. Provide a shallow water dish and a hiding area – more than one if you’re housing multiple scorpions together. The substrate should be 4 to 5 inches deep and gut-loaded crickets or mealworms will make up their diet.

BARK SCORPIONS

North America, Central America, northern parts of South America and the West Indies are home to the Bark scorpion. Ranging in size from 1.5 to 3 inches, there are 41 species of Bark scorpions. From deserts to moist forests, this scorpion will hide under leaves, loose bark, crevices of trees, or any place that gives them cover.

Bark scorpions are excellent climbers and fast runners. They can be aggressive and although the sting of most Bark scorpions is not life threatening, some have venom that is potentially lethal.

They are considered the most dangerous scorpion in the USA.

The home should be a 10 gallon tank with a locking screen top. A substrate of 3 to 4 inches should line the bottom with an under-tank heat pad on one side. These scorpions enjoy lots of hiding places and need a shallow water dish. Crickets and other gut loaded insects will be their diet.

EMPEROR SCORPIONS

Native to tropical Africa and other countries located near the equator, these scorpions live close to the surface in tunnels and under moisture retaining ground litter. One of the largest scorpions, the Emperor has a large, shiny black body, bumpy pincers, and can grow to be more than 8 inches. The venom is mild and Emperor Scorpions are not usually very aggressive.

The Emperor scorpion is the most common type found as a pet.

Multiple Emperors can live together in a single tank, but there is always the possibility of cannibalism when you put more than one scorpion in a habitat.

Use a 10 gallon tank or terrarium for a single Emperor scorpion and put a heat pad on one side of the tank. The bottom of the tank needs 3 to 4 inches of substrate soil. Give your scorpion a shallow water bowl and hiding area(s) like half logs, or cork bark. Crickets and mealworms that have been gut loaded can be the primary diet.

FLAT ROCK SCORPIONS

Averaging 7 inches, this large species of scorpion is native to South Africa. Their large, strong, flat pincers are well suited for grabbing prey hiding in cracks. The Flat Rock scorpion is usually docile, slow to run and rarely stings. Their venom is low in toxicity and with their thin bodies this species of scorpion is more easily injured than others.

This scorpion is an excellent choice for the novice collector.

10 gallon tanks with a heat pad under one side makes a good home for this scorpion. The hiding areas should be narrow and tight fitting. Well secured stacks of rocks or slate available at most pet stores work well. The substrate will need to be 2-4 inches deep and comprised of eco-earth or sand. The scorpion will need a shallow water bowl and a good diet will consist of gut loaded crickets and mealworms.

Only one scorpion should be kept per habitat due to their territorial nature.

GIANT HAIRY SCORPIONS

Arizona, Nevada, Utah and California are home to eight known species of the Giant Hairy Scorpion. Living in rocky deserts, they dig deep burrows in dry sandy areas. Ranging in size from 3.5 to 4 inches, these yellow-green scorpions are the largest found in North America.

This scorpion will quickly run away from confrontation, but will take defensive positions and sting if cornered, or provoked. Venom of the Giant Hairy Scorpion is considered weak to mild, causing pain and swelling when stung, but not life threatening.

This docile scorpion makes a good choice for beginners.

A ten gallon terrarium or aquarium with an under tank heat pad makes a suitable habitat for the giant hairy scorpion. The substrate should be three to four inches of a mixture of sand and potting soil or eco-earth. Shallow water dish and hide areas such as cork bark should be provided. Food for the scorpion consists of gut loaded crickets and other insects.

GOLD SCORPIONS

Gold Scorpions come from western Africa and the Middle East. Burrowing in sandy soil of rocky areas, this scorpion varies from 2 to 3.5 inches. They are quick moving, small, chunky scorpions. Coloring is a shiny straw or golden yellow.

Many of this species will sting if confronted and nip with their pincers. The sting is quite painful and some of these scorpions produce more severe symptoms than simple swelling and numbness.

Having bad dispositions, these are for an experienced collectors.

A ten gallon terrarium with an under tank heat pad is required. Sand or a mixture of eco-earth and sand 3 to 4 inches deep makes a suitable substrate. Their homes should have a shallow water dish and small flat rocks, cork bark, or logs to make hide areas. Multiple gold scorpions can be in the same habitat as long as they are well fed and enough hiding areas and places to burrow are supplied. Gut loaded crickets and other insects will make up the scorpion’s diet.

A Scorpion’s Sting

2009-03-10T06:39:00.000-07:00

All scorpion species possess toxic venom, but most scorpions are relatively harmless to humans. Scorpions are generally not able to deliver enough poison to kill a healthy adult and their sting produces only local pain, numbness, or swelling. Any serious effects, or deaths, would normally happen with the young, elderly, infirm, or people who may be allergic to the venom of some species.

In the past 20 years there haven't been any reported fatalities due to scorpion stings.

The only species of scorpion in North America that has venom potent enough to be dangerous to humans is the Arizona Bark Scorpion. The effects of its sting will be severe pain and swelling at the site of the sting, numbness, frothing at the mouth, breathing difficulties, muscle twitching and convulsions. Immediate medial attention must be sought.

Other than the Bark Scorpion, common symptoms of a scorpion sting are:

- Pain, tingling or burning sensation at the sting site;
- A feeling of general discomfort, or uneasiness;
- Sweating, nausea, salivating, or vomiting;
- Numbness, heart palpitations, and muscle twitching (including neck, eye and head);
- Breathing difficulties may occur.

More severe reactions include:

- Blurring of consciousness, or unconsciousness;
- Fall in blood pressure, shock and convulsions.

Treatment of a scorpion sting:

If you are stung or injured by accident while cleaning your pets cage –

- clean the wound with antiseptic;
- apply a cool washcloth or ice pack to the area for ten minutes and repeat as necessary;

If you start having any type of severe reaction to a sting, immediately seek medical attention.

Poison Control Center:
Open 24 hours a day, seven days a week

Poison Help Hotling: 1-800-222-1222

Poison Control and Drug Information Center: 1-800-326-0101

Care & Handling of Your Pet Scorpion

2009-03-05T09:28:00.000-08:00

Scorpions are excellent climbers, so when you open the lid of their home you have to make sure you’re aware of where your pet scorpion is located.

Handling Your Pet Scorpion:

It’s not recommended that you handle your pet scorpion. Not only is there the risk of being stung, but handling tends to create stress for the scorpion.

There is also a chance of losing, or fatally injuring your pet scorpion. Scorpions can move quickly and if it gets away it will look for a dark place to hide. An escaping scorpion that runs under furniture, air ducts, and other places may be very difficult to retrieve.

If the handling of your pet scorpion is necessary (such as in the cleaning of their homes), it is suggested that a pair of long handled forceps with foam over the grips be used and that the scorpion be picked up by the stinging end.

The Moulting Process:

As scorpions grow their hard exoskeleton becomes too small for the body and they have to grow a new one. The new outer skeleton actually forms underneath the existing one. Taking up to twelve hours and requiring a lot of energy to shed the old skeleton, this moulting process can be a stressful process for the scorpion.

A few days before the moulting process begins, the scorpion will go into hiding and refuse food. Like a spider, scorpions will shed their old skin and leave behind an exact replica of itself.

Newly moulted scorpions will be white and extremely soft bodied. During this time your pet will be vulnerable and easily injured. If you have scorpions in a communal tank, you will have to pay close attention to your newly moulted scorpion so it is not harmed.

Scorpions will moult an average of six times before reaching adulthood. After it reaches adulthood the moulting will stop. Depending on the species, a scorpion reaches adulthood between six months to seven years of age.

Feeding Your Pet Scorpion

2009-03-01T15:28:00.000-08:00

Scorpions are opportunistic predators and use their pincers to catch their prey. They will then crush the prey, or inject it with their toxic venom, so it can be eaten.

Wild scorpions will eat a variety of bugs, insects and small lizards. Your pet scorpion will have a primary diet of crickets and other insects such as mealworms and moths. An adult Emperor Scorpion needs only 3 to 6 crickets a week, fed to them every other day.

The crickets that you feed your pet scorpion should be fed a nutritious diet so that the nutritional values can be passed on to your pet. Crickets can be dusted with a quality reptile supplement every couple of feedings.

Night feedings will more naturally duplicate a scorpion’s normal feeding habit.
Scorpions can only digest food in a liquid form. Any solid matter (fur, exoskeleton, etc) is disposed of by the scorpion.

Make sure that your scorpion has a shallow, sturdy water dish, no more than half and inch deep. If you have more than one scorpion, you should provide more than one water dish. Clean the dish regularly and provide fresh water on a daily basis.

Adult scorpions may refuse to eat for extended periods, so you should not be alarmed as long as the normal physical characteristics and habits do not change, or deteriorate. This fasting can last several months in some healthy adults.

Young scorpions, on the other hand, will eat almost constantly as they grow.

Scorpions: Housing & Habitat

2009-02-26T16:47:00.000-08:00

Giving Your Scorpion a Good Home:

Glass aquarium tanks make the best home for your new pet. Ten gallon tanks are good for a single scorpion, but you should go with a 15 to 20 gallon tank if you’re going to have more than one.

Home security is an issue. Scorpions can easily squeeze through small openings, are agile enough to climb well, and have the strength to lift tops. You tank, or terrarium, must have a locking screen top that will not only keep your pet in, but will keep other pets and small children out.

Hiding spots should be provided. Multiple hiding areas are needed if you have more than one pet scorpion. These can be made out of pottery, bark, half logs, or any other decorative items available from your local pet stores.

Proper Flooring:

Flooring requirements are different for tropical and desert scorpions. Tropical scorpions need a damp substrate to burrow in. Sterilized potting soil, eco earth, or bed-a-beast, are all good substrate choices. Desert scorpions can be provided with commercial bags of play sand as bedding. Make the bedding on the bottom of the tank 3 to 5 inches deep for burrowing.

Temperature & Humidity:

High humidity is necessary for scorpions and can be maintained by daily misting. Their substrate should be damp, but not wet, and adding pieces of sphagnum moss on top of the substrate will also help retain moisture in their habitat. Mould on the substrate, or condensation on the walls, indicate that the humidity is too high.

Temperature of the tank should be between 70 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit. A heating mat is the best way to provide warmth, but it should be placed under one portion of the tank only so the scorpion can regulate its own temperature.

Accessories & Optional Decorations:

Special lighting isn’t necessary, but scorpions glow under a black light and will look fluorescent. Providing a UV black light for the tank allows you to watch them without disturbing their natural behaviour.

Optional decorations can be added to make their environment more attractive and natural looking. Pieces of bark, flat stones, broken ceramic flower pots or commercial reptile hides can be provided as hiding spots for the scorpions.

A shallow water dish should be provided, but it must be shallow enough to prevent drowning.

Rearranging the decorations to their own liking is quite common with pet scorpions. It might not look neat and tidy when they’re done, but it’s best not to continually move the decorations around or the scorpion(s) may become stressed.

General Characteristics of a Scorpion

2009-02-23T08:44:00.000-08:00

Life Span:
The actual lifespan of most scorpion species is not known and some may live up to 25 years. The average life of a scorpion however, is only 3 to 5 years.

Maturity:
The maturity of a scorpion is typically measured by the number of moults it goes through. Normally, a scorpion will require 5 to 7 moults to be considered an adult and this process can take anywhere from 2 to 6 years.

Moulting:
Like its cousin the tarantula, scorpions go through a moulting process in which they shed and produce a new exoskeleton (outer skeleton that supports and protects the scorpions body). The scorpion must continually move and stretch while the new exoskeleton hardens to that it will be able to move when the hardening is complete. During this time of moulting, the exoskeleton is soft and the scorpion is very vulnerable to injury.

Social Behaviour:
Some types of scorpions will exhibit social behaviours beyond an immediate mother and young relationship and will be involved in colonies and extended family groups. These familial groupings may share burrows and food.

Habits:
Scorpions are nocturnal and hide during the day. They will find a spot under rocks and logs, or inside cracks. Some will burrow themselves into a cool underground retreat. Although normally thought of as living in the desert, scorpions have a large range of habitats, including grasslands, savannahs, deciduous forests, highland pine forests, rain forests and caves. There have been some scorpions found in the Himalayas under snow covered rocks.

Predators and Prey:
Lying in wait and ambushing their prey, scorpions feed on all kinds of centipedes, spiders, and even other scorpions. Larger scorpions may feed on small lizards, snakes and mice. Despite their excellent predatory skills, scorpions find themselves becoming prey to tarantulas, lizards, owls, shrews snakes, and bats.

Glow in the Dark Features:
Due to fluorescent chemicals in the cuticle, scorpions glow when exposed to ultraviolet light (black light).

The Scorpion as a Pet

2009-02-20T07:15:00.000-08:00

Relatively easy to care for and having a lifespan of 6-8 years, scorpions are fast becoming a popular choice for pets.

Scorpions have been around for 400 million years and have naturally attracted the interest of pet owners and hobbyists alike. There are currently over 1400 recognized species of scorpions in the world with about 90 being found in the US. California and Arizona have the greatest variety with around 60 different species.

These little 8 legged critters belong to the Arahnida family which means they’re related to spiders, mites, and ticks. All scorpions can sting and although it will hurt, few scorpions are actually dangerous to humans. You can’t “de-sting” a scorpion and if you’re normally allergic to bee and wasp stings, then you should give serious thought about having a pet scorpion.

A scorpions’ habitat can range from rain forests to woodlands, deserts, and grasslands. Most scorpions prefer the warmer tropical climates and will feed on a large variety of animals and insects.

Most scorpion species will reach adulthood between 2 and 3 inches. The longest scorpion in the world is said to be the African Scorpion which can be over 8 inches long. The largest in the U.S. is the Giant Desert Hairy Scorpion at about 5 inches.

Pet scorpions are inexpensive to buy, easy to feed, and don’t require a lot of maintenance and care. They should stay by themselves in a tank and don’t require a lot of exercise, so you can keep them in a smaller terrarium, or aquarium. Their home should have some artificial heat and light along with a place to hide. Scorpions are not high maintenance pets. Provide some water, keep the tank clean and feed your pet scorpion crickets and mealworms about every other day. Because of possible injury to yourself, or your pet, it’s recommended that you handle the scorpion as little as possible.

Of all the varieties, only a few kinds of scorpions are actually recommended as pets. The most popular is the Emperor scorpion. It’s also known as the Imperial Black Emperor, or African Emperor Scorpion. Shiny black and about the size of your palm, this scorpion is quite impressive, yet one of the easiest for a beginner to take care of. The Emperor Scorpion is fairly docile with a sting equal to a bee, or wasp. In other species of scorpions, the sting can go from being rather harmless to quite painful, even lethal.

Scorpions are not usually associated with being a good pet. Some say that owning a scorpion is actually a hobby while others maintain their pet status. Either way, if you’re looking for something interesting and unique a scorpion makes an excellent choice.

Pet Forums for Exotics

2009-02-17T10:23:00.000-08:00

These websites all include forums and sections relating to exotic pets.

Chazhound Dog Forum
http://www.chazhound.com/forums

Forum is predominantly for dogs as noted by its title, but does have a section for cats and any other animals you’d like to discuss.

Dog Forum - Dog.community
http://forum.dog.com/forums

As the title says, this is predominantly a dog forum and is excellent for anything relating to dogs. They do have sections on cats and horses, but that’s about it.

Exotic Pets – About.com
http://forums.about.com/n/pfx/forum.aspx?nav=messages&webtag=ab-exoticpets&lgnF=y

Although this is the exotics section, the forum does contain links to other animals and pets, including dogs, cats, birds, horses and other wildlife.

Kitchener Waterloo Aquarium Society
http://www.kwas.ca/index.htm

An excellent site devoted to fish and aquariums. You don’t often see one like this, so thought it would be a nice addition to the list.

Petfinder
http://forums.petfinder.com

The site is mostly dogs and cats, but the forum does cover a wide variety of animals, including exotics. It’s a fairly active forum and the site has some good information.

PetLovers.com
http://forums.petlovers.com

A decent forum with a lot of good discussions and information, although I found it a little difficult to get around in at first.

Pets.ca
http://www.pets.ca/forum/index.php

There’s lots of information in this website. Although this site is predominantly directed towards dogs and cats, they’ve added an exotic pets section.

Pets Bulletin Board
http://board.pets-buynow.com

Many interesting links, forums and bulletin boards on a wide variety of pets. Has information and links on a very large range of subjects relating to pets of all kinds.

PetThoughts.com
http://www.petthoughts.com/bulletin/index.php?referrerid=0

A nice looking site that’s easy to navigate. It has lots of information and good forums on all different species, including exotics and reptiles. Downside on this one is that it doesn’t look to be very active.

sSNAKESs
http://www.ssnakess.com

Good web for snakes and reptiles. Fairly active and a lot of good discussions going on.

World's Cutest Animals Forum
http://www.worldscutestanimals.com/forum

This is a good forum that covers all pets, including exotics. It’s easy to navigate and has some interesting articles and arguments.

Yahoo! Answers
http://answers.yahoo.com

Categories on anything you can think of, but the pets section is an excellent area for finding out about almost any kind of pet you can imagine. Lots of questions and responses are good.

Best Tarantulas for First Time Owners

2009-02-13T13:34:00.000-08:00

Of the 800 plus species of Tarantulas, these are the most common for a first time owner.

Desert Blonde Tarantula (aka - Mexican Blonde)
Scientific Name: Aphonopelma chalcodes
Size: Leg span up to 6 inches.
Life Span: 20 years for females; males 2-3 years.
Housing: 5-10 gallon tank is suitable.
Width: 2-3 times leg span.
Height: Equal to the leg span.
3 inches of peat moss, soil, or vermiculite as flooring.
Wood, cork bark, or half a flower pot for shelter.
Temperature: 75-80 F (24-27 C)
Humidity: 65-70%
Feeding: Crickets and other large insects - pesticide free.
An occasional pinky mouse for adults.
Temperament: Slightly more aggressive than other beginner Tarantulas.
Notes: Long-lived, but slow growing species.

Chilean Rose Tarantula
Scientific Name: Grammostola rosea
AKA: Chilean Common; Chilean Fire; Chilean Rose Haired; Chilean Flame
Size: Leg span of 4.5 - 5.5 inches.
Life Span: 15 years for females; males 2-3 years.
Housing: 5-10 gallon tank is suitable.
Width: 2-3 times the leg span.
Height: As tall as the spider's leg span.
Foor: 2-3 inches of peat moss, soil, or vermiculite.
Wood, cork bark, or half of a small clay flower pot for shelter.
Temperature: 70-85 F (21-30 C)
Humidity: 60-70%
Feeding: Crickets and other large insects - pesticide free).
An occasional pinky mouse for full grown spiders.
Temperament: Docile and calm.
Notes: Ideal for beginners. Hardy, docile, inexpensive, easy to care for.

Mexican Red knee Tarantula
Scientific Name: Brachypelma smithi
Size: Leg span of 5 - 5.5 inches.
Life Span: 15-25 years for females; 2-3 years for males.
Housing: 5-10 gallon tank is suitable.
Width: 2-3 times leg span.
Height: As tall as leg span.
Floor: 2-3 inches of peat moss, soil, or vermiculite.
Wood, cork bark, or half of a small clay flower pot for a shelter.
Temperatue: 75-80 F (24-30 C)
Humidity: 60-75%
Feeding: Crickets and other large insects - pesticide free.
An occasional pinky mouse for adults.
Temperament: Docile and calm.
Notes: The "classic" pet tarantula. Very popular due to its beauty.
Good temperament and long life span.

Costa Rican Zebra Tarantula
Scientific Name: Aphonopelma seemani
Size: 4 - 4.5 inches
Life Span: 15-20 for females; 2-3 years for males.
Housing: 5-10 gallon tank is suitable.
Width: 2-3 times wider than leg span.
Height: As tall as leg span.
Floor: 3-4 inches of peat moss, soil, or vermiculite.
Wood, cork bark, or half of a small clay flower pot for shelter.
Temperature: 70-85 F (21-30 C)
Humidity: 75-80%
Feeding: Crickets and other large insects - pesticide free.
Occasional pinky mouse for larger Tarantulas.
Temperament: Docile, but can move very fast.

Mexican Redleg Tarantulas
Scientific Name: Brachypelma emilia
Size: Up to 5-6 inches.
Life Span: To 30 years for females; males considerably shorter.
Housing: 5-10 gallon tank is suitable.
Width: 2-3 times leg span of the spider.
Height: As tall as leg span.
Floor: 2-3 inches of peat moss, soil, or vermiculite.
Wood, cork bark, or half of a small clay flower pot for shelter.
Temperature: 75-85 F (24-30 C)
Humidity: 65-70%
Feeding: Crickets and other large insects – pesticide free.
Larger Tarantulas can have an occasional pinkie mouse.
Temperament: Docile, but can be skittish.

Curly Hair Tarantula (aka Wooly Tarantula)
Scientific Name: Brachypelma albopilosum
Size: Leg span of 5-5.5 inches.
Life Span: 3-30 for females; males much shorter.
Housing: 5-10 gallon tank is suitable.
Width: 2-3 times Leg span.
Height: As tall as leg span.
Floor: 2-3 inches of peat moss, soil, or vermiculite.
Wood, cork bark, or half of a small clay flower pot for shelter.
Temperature: 75-85 F (24-30 C)
Humidity: 75-85%
Feeding: Crickets and other large insects - pesticide free.
Occasional pinky mouse for larger spiders.
Temperament: Docile and calm.

Tarantulas: Care & Handling

2009-02-12T10:24:00.000-08:00

Housing:
Tarantulas are not social creatures and should be housed one to an enclosure.

For burrowing or terrestrial Tarantulas, the cage should be approximately 3 times its leg span long and 2 times its leg span wide. The height does not have to be much more than the length of the spider.

A 2.5 or 5 gallon aquarium works well. Larger tanks aren’t necessary because your pet Tarantula doesn’t need a lot of extra space and a large tank could make prey harder to find.

The lid has to be secure and adequately ventilated. Flooring can be vermiculite, or vermiculite and a potting soil / peat mixture. The mix should be 2-4 inches deep to hold moisture and allow your pet room to burrow. Do not use wood chips, particularly cedar and pine.

Give your Tarantula a place to hide. This can be a piece of cork bark, hollow log, or half a clay flower pot on its side.

The arboreal (tree dwelling) Tarantulas need a taller cage for climbing room. Equip it with branches, twigs or some other structure on which the spider can construct its web. A 10 gallon aquarium set on end works well.

Lighting:
Tarantulas do not need bright light and should be kept in a darker area of a room where direct sunlight will not fall on the cage. Incandescent lights could potentially dry out a Tarantula, so don’t use these.

Heating strips or pads (types used for reptiles) can be placed under a small part of the cage for heating needs. Most Tarantulas do fine between 75-85 F.

Water Dish:
Your Tarantula’s water dish should be shallow to prevent drowning. Place pebbles in the dish to give your spider something to climb out on if needed.

Temperatures and Humidity:
For Tarantulas that do not require high humidity levels, a shallow water dish in the cage and misting once a week should be sufficient. Those that require higher humidity will need more frequent misting.

Temperature and humidity gauges should be used to monitor conditions. At the higher temperatures, extra care must be taken to ensure adequate humidity levels. At the same time, excess humidity can encourage mould growth and should be avoided.

Cleaning of the Cage:
Cages do not need to be cleaned that often. Tarantulas in lower humidity: once a year unless mould, fungus, or mites are noticed. Pets with more humidity will need their homes cleaned more often.

Feeding:
Tarantulas do well on a diet of crickets, supplemented with other insects. Adults actually eat very little and feeding once a week may be enough. Before moulting, mature Tarantulas can fast for extended periods and a month or two is not uncommon. Growing spiders should be fed several times a week.

You can occasionally feed your Tarantula meal worms, super worms, and roaches. Larger tarantulas can be given pinkie mice and small lizards, but it’s not necessary.

Keep your pets food smaller than the Tarantulas body. With live feeding, you have to be careful the Tarantula isn’t harmed by its prey. Do not feed your pet any wild insects unless you’re positive there is no risk of pesticide exposure.

Moulting:
Spiders grow by shedding their old exoskeleton and producing a new one. This can be a stressful time for Tarantulas and proper humidity levels are critical. They will lie on their backs to moult and the process cab take several hours.

It will take a few days for the new exoskeleton to harden. During this time your Tarantula is vulnerable to injury. It shouldn’t be fed and any uneaten prey has to be removed from the cage. Refrain from handling your pet during this period of moulting and hardening. It could be up to two weeks for your Tarantula to fully recover.

Handling:
Although most Tarantulas aren’t very venomous, they do bite and the bite can be painful. In addition, irritation can result from the itching hairs on the pet’s belly. There is also a danger of your pet falling. With heavy bodied Tarantulas, even small falls can be fatal if the stomach ruptures.

It is not recommended that children handle Tarantulas due to the risk of injury to both the child and your pet.

Tarantulas and You

2009-02-11T20:39:00.000-08:00

Tarantulas have been fairly popular pets for a number of years, but make more of a fascinating hobby than an interactive pet. Tarantulas are unique, quiet and don’t take very much space which makes them a good pet for apartment dwellers. Although Tarantulas are often thought of as being dangerous, they are actually fragile creatures that stress easily and don’t take well to a lot of handling.

There are over 800 species of Tarantula, but the pet store varieties tend to be hardy and easier to care for than some of their relatives. The Tarantula comes in a variety of sizes and appearances and because they’re native to many differing climatic areas, the needs for housing and care do vary for the different species.

Tarantulas would rather run away than be confrontational, but they do bite and their bites are venomous. For most of the pet species the toxic levels of venom are similar to that of a bee or wasp. The poison will cause pain, redness and swelling, but would not normally be serious, or fatal, unless a person has allergic reactions to spider bites.

Some species of Tarantula have tiny hairs on their bellies that can be released if threatened. The hairs have barbs and can work themselves into the skin and cause itching and irritation. They can also penetrate the eye and cause inflammation, so you should not rub your eyes after doing anything with the spider and its cage until after you’ve thoroughly washed your hands.

The best choices in Tarantulas for first time owners are ground dwellers or burrowers because they’re a little slower moving and easier to handle. These can be: Chilean Rose;Costa Rican Zebra; Mexican Redknee; Mexican Redleg; Desert/Mexican Blonde; or the Curly Hair Tarantula.

The Pinktoe is a good first arboreal tarantula (tree dwelling), but not a good first tarantula. Generally, these tree dwellers are more challenging to care for and the Pinktoe is quite fast and agile which makes handling more difficult.
Female Tarantulas are usually the better choice of pets because they tend to live longer than the males. A female could live up to 20 years, where a male’s life expectancy is only a couple of years.

When buying your pet Tarantula, make sure that the age and sex are known. You should also find out the scientific name for the spider as that will be the best way to get the appropriate care information. And Tarantulas are not social animals, so do not keep more than one in a single enclosure.

Sugar Gliders and Healthcare

2009-02-09T10:18:00.000-08:00

Giving your Sugar Glider proper nutrition, a stress free environment, and a clean cage will reduce the chances of your pet getting sick.

Signs of sickness:
Watery eyes, listless attitude, red and scaly skin, abscesses, vomiting, unnatural feces, balding, weight loss, and laboured breathing are all indications your pet may not be feeling well.

Calcium deficiency:
This is the most common problem for Sugar Gliders. Look for lameness, paralysis, and difficulty moving. Try feeding foods that don't have as much phosphorus in them, these include: cherries, figs, pink grapefruit, mangos, oranges, papaya, pears, pineapples, raspberries, tofu, and yogurt. You can give calcium supplements as well. See a veterinarian if he appears to be really sick or paralyzed

Diarrhea:
Indicated by watery droppings and caused by several different things: too much citrus fruit, lactose intolerance, gastroenteritis, toxin intake, or stress.

Constipation:
Look for an extended stomach. Caused by too little roughage in their diet, or they’re eating too much dry food.

Internal and External Parasites:
Internal parasites include roundworms, hookworms, and tapeworms. External parasites include mites, lice, fleas, and ticks. Check with your vet to determine the best treatment method, and make sure to keep the entire living area clean and disinfected.

Sugar Gliders – House, Bedding & Accessories

2009-02-06T12:40:00.000-08:00

THEIR HOME:
Use a large bird cage, no smaller than 20 x 20 x 30 inches tall. The bigger, the better and taller is better than longer because they like to climb. Make sure there’s no more than half inch bar spacing, but don’t use door/window screening. This is too small and your Glider could easily get their claws caught in it.

Place a bird’s nesting box high up in the cage as your pet’s sleeping quarters. They like to sleep where it’s warm and dark. Food dishes should also be placed high. Keep his home where the temperature is fairly constant, but keep him where he can see whether it’s day or night so his biological clock doesn’t get screwed up.

PROPER BEDDING:
You can use white paper towels, corn cob bedding, fleece, or newspaper. Aspen shavings and an old cloth will make the bed more comfortable. Place shavings on the bottom of the cage as well to absorb dropping, but do not use cedar or pine shavings as these can cause respiratory problems.

ACCESSORIES:
Water bottles: Ones used for hamsters is good.

Food Dishes: Hanging bird dishes, heavy ashtrays, or heavy small animal dishes all work well.

Wheels: These must have a solid running base and no moving parts that can catch the gliders tail or feet.

Toys: Toys made for cats, birds, hamsters, and even some infants will give your Sugar Glider hours of entertainment.

Branches and Perches: These are an absolute must for any Glider’s habitat. Branches taken from outside must be safe, sterilized, and not treated with chemicals. Bird perches work great.

Other: Use hollow logs or pipes and let your Glider explore and hide inside them.

Pouch: To carry your pet around and help with the bonding process.

Sugar Gliders – Care & Attention

2009-02-06T11:59:00.000-08:00

THE BONDING PROCESS:
This can take several months, so exercise patience. Get a pouch that you can hang around your neck and carry your pet with you around the house. Let them get used to your scent and voice.

Handle your new pet a few days after you’ve brought him home. Do it in the daytime while he’s sleepy and he’ll be easier to pickup and hold. Use a cupped hand when picking the Glider up so his whole body is supported.

GLIDERS REQUIRE ATTENTION:
These pets are social animals and require a lot of attention. Consider getting Sugar Gliders in pairs and a minimum of two hours a day should be devoted to your pet. If these little creatures get lonely, they can become depressed and eventually die.

Playtime can include letting them run around in your Glider-proofed room, having them ride on your shoulder. They enjoy finger-wrestling and getting into your hair.

GLIDER PROOFING A ROOM:
Your pet can find a way into very small spaces, so make sure you locate all the little holes and places they could crawl into where you can’t get them out.

The number one death trap for Gliders is the toilet, so make sure the lid is always closed. They can’t swim, or get out, and if they fall in they’ll drown.

OTHER PETS:
Normally, Sugar Gliders don’t get along well with other pets and should always have their own cage and habitat.

Sugar gliders and other exotic pets such as flying squirrels should not be kept together. They will not only stress each other out, but will fight and cause harm to each other.

ACTIVITIES, EXERCISE and PLAY:
Once awake, these nocturnal animals love to play and explore. Let them out of their cage for a few hours, but don’t leave them unsupervised. Use caution when they’re around fridges, stoves, toilets, windows, and any plant that could be poisonous to them.

You can take your Sugar Glider outside, but only when it’s cloudy, or the sun is almost done. Bright light will hurt their sensitive nocturnal eyes. It’s suggested that you put your pet on a leash, or harness. If they get loose and into the trees, he could be gone forever.

LITTER TRAINING:
Sugar Gliders cannot be litter trained. They have little or no bowel control and will go wherever and whenever the need arises, including on you and your clothes.

Sugar Gliders – Proper Diet & Feeding

2009-02-03T14:26:00.000-08:00

A Sugar Gliders diet can be complicated, so you have to take extra care in providing your pet with the right foods. Your pet’s diet should consist of 75% fruits and vegetables and 25% protein, along with added calcium and vitamins.

Fruit & Vegetables:
All fruits and vegetables should be fresh and rinsed. Your Sugar Glider will enjoy a wide variety, such as: apples, oranges, cantaloupes, grapes, pears, mangos, water melon and pears.

Your pet may eat peaches, kiwi, strawberries, pears, pineapple and banana, but some are not so fond of them. Some Sugar Gliders will eat the flesh of the fruit; others will only chew on it until they’ve extracted the juices.

Pet Gliders tend to enjoy drinking a variety of fruit juices and nectars from a bowl.

Vegetables can include peas, carrots, sweet potatoes, corn, squash and fresh greens.

Protein:
All meats for your pet should be lean and cooked well. Poultry is to be skinned and boneless. Cut the meats up into very small pieces. A Sugar Glider’s natural source of protein is live prey such as crickets, grasshoppers and mealworms, so add these to their diet.

Tofu is excellent source of protein, if they will eat it, as are dairy products like yogurt and cottage cheese. Hard boiled eggs will also provide good protein.

Quality dry cat food can be added to their diets, but sparingly. Gliders get most of their water from the food they eat, so a dry pellet meal is not recommended.

Do Not Feed Your Pet Any of the Following:
- Avocado;
- Chocolate, coffee, tea, or soda;
- Fried meats, or eggs;
- Insects caught in the wild that could have contact with pesticides;
- Meats with any seasonings;
- Onions and foods that contain onion powder;
- Peanuts, or other foods with high fat content;
- Pits or seeds of fruit;
- Raw sugar, sugar substitutes, candy, or chocolate;
- Rhubarb, onion, garlic, salt, potatoes eyes, or turnip.
- Tuna

Treats:
Sunflower seeds and pecans make good treats, but peanuts to be given sparingly as they do contain a high fat content which is not good for your pet Glider.

Water:
Even though many of the fruits and vegetables contain much of the water Sugar Gliders need, your pet must have access to water at all times.

Supplements:
Normally, the biggest problem will be a lack of calcium, so good calcium supplements like Reptivite and Rep-Cal (reptile vitamins) can supplement their diet.

Sugar Gliders: Web Links & Resources

2009-01-26T11:14:00.000-08:00

These web sites contain some more useful information on Sugar Gliders and their care.

Wikipedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_Glider

Good information on history of Sugar Gliders and general characteristics.

Pygmy Pets
http://www.pygmypets.com/sg2.html

Not a large site, but one with some usefule information on Sugar Gliders and Wallabies.

Pet Sugar Gliders & Hedgehogs
http://www.petsugargliders.com/

Excellent site with extremely useful information on all aspects of Sugar Glider ownership, care and handling.

Worldwide Sugar Glider Network
http://worldwidesugarglidernetwork.com/default.htm

Nice site to visit with good information on these pets.

Animal-World
http://animal-world.com/encyclo/critters/Sugar_Gliders/Sugar_Gliders.php

A very nice site for small animals and exotics. Colorful and enjoyable to use.

Sugar Gliders: General Characteristics

2009-01-26T10:58:00.000-08:00

Sugar Gliders are extremely fashionable companions, ranking in popularity with Hamsters and Guinea Pigs as household pets. They are native to Australia and introduced to the United States about 20 years ago as a domesticated pet.

Measuring between 6 and 8 inches long, the Sugar Glider has a tail nearly as long as its body and almost as thick as a persons thumb. It will weight 3 to 6 ounces.

Although thought of as an exotic animal, they are not classified as such by the USDA (United States Department of Agriculture). As of December, 2008, Sugar Gliders are legal to own as domestic house pets in the U.S.A., except for California.

This small pet is named for its preference for sweet foods and its ability to glide through the air like a flying squirrel, achieving distances over 150 feet. Sugar Gliders are nocturnal, tree dwelling animals that often live in groups of 15 to 30. If taken care of properly, these pets can live to be 10-15 years old.

The Sugar Glider may be small, but it’s not quiet. They make a significant amount of noise (barks, chirps, and chatters) that could keep you awake at night. Their claws are sharp and have to be carefully trimmed. Gliders are insectivores, so they do eat bugs and will dine on pinkies (baby mice). As a pet, their diet is mainly fruits and vegetables (75%) as well as protein (25%).

Sugar Gliders are marsupials, which mean that they raise their young in a pouch like a kangaroo does. They do not have a bad odor. If they do smell, it’s usually linked to their diet, or cages not properly and regularly cleaned out. Sometimes, a strong smell can be related to illness.

As a pet, they are meant for the more advanced owner who has done their research and knows about Sugar Gliders. Generally, they do not adapt well to changes in their normal sleeping patterns. They become easily stressed when their daytime sleep is interrupted and this increases the risk of illness. Sugar Gliders are not a young child’s pet as they can be easily crushed and will bite if handled roughly. You cannot litter train a Glider and they don’t care where they go.

Before purchasing a Sugar Glider, consider veterinary care. Make sure that you have a veterinarian nearby that will treat this species of pet.

If you’ve done your homework and are ready for the responsibility, these lively, inquisitive creatures make an excellent companion and bond well to their new owners if given plenty of attention.

Rat Links

2009-01-20T21:49:00.000-08:00

Rats are popular pets as seen by the following links:

Rat-Info: Homemade Rat Toys
http://rat-info.com/Homemade_Rat_Toys.html

This is a great site for your pet rat’s toys. It contains plans and pictures for toys and habitat accessories that you can make yourself.

Pet Rats Canada
http://www.petratscanada.com/Home.htm

A good site for a variety of rat information and resources.

Virginia’s Rate Page
http://pages.interlog.com/~audiotre/rats/

An extensive library of sites on pets, including breeders, bulletin boards, chat rooms, clubs, articles, medicine and pretty well anything you’ve ever wanted to know about rats.

Introduction to the Rat Race
http://members.madasafish.com/~cj_whitehound/Rats_Nest/Introduction.htm

Excellent site with lots of resources and information specifically related to rats.

Rats Rule
http://www.ratsrule.com/

An interesting rat forum with some nice information and dialogue.

The Dapper Rat
http://www.dapper.com.au/

Not a large site, but an interesting one none the less. Some good info and links from our friends ‘down under’.

Healthcare and Rats

2009-01-20T21:39:00.000-08:00

This is a quick look at common health problems and your pet rats.

Stress:
Rats can become stressed over changes in food, housing or litter brand. They can get stressed over a new cage mate, or the loss of one. New pets in the family and trips to the vet can cause stress. Look for them chewing on cage bars, or plucking their own fur, and some rats may sleep more than usual. Give your pet familiar toys, treats and friendly play or cuddling.

Myco:
Mycoplasma pulmonis. All rats carry the bacteria and it cannot be cured. This disease flares up when rats are stressed, or the weather changes. Some rats may sneeze, or wheeze. This problem can generally be managed with antibiotics from your vet.

Respiratory Infections:
These can’t be cured with medicine, but can be relieved and treated. Antibiotics can help control bacterial infections like strep throat and secondary infections such as Myco.

Pneumonia:
Pneumonia is a very common source of death in rats. It can be caused by any respiratory infection and is usually compounded by cold, stress, or other infections. Early symptoms are lethargy, heavy breathing, and sometimes wheezing. In advanced stages, your rat may stop moving or responding completely, body temperature drops, feet may look blue, ears and nose appear pale, and your pet may gasp for air.

Sneezing:
It’s common that pet rats will sneeze for about a week after they’re brought home. It’s a reaction to the stress of being moved. Rats will also sneeze because of dust, cold, illness and allergies. Perfumes, air fresheners and cigarette smoke can also cause your pet to sneeze and become congested.

Red Tears:
Poryphin is mucus rats produce when stressed, or sick. It’s a red liquid, or crust, that you’ll see on your pet’s eyes, or nose. Poryphin by itself is no cause for alarm, but if it is excessive look for the source. It can be caused by stress, illness, eye irritation, or allergies.

Hiccups:
Sometimes hiccups are caused by respiratory problems, but usually come from being excited or eating too fast.

Vomit:
Rats cannot regurgitate. If they choke on something, you will have to hold them upside-down and tap on them to help dislodge what they’ve swallowed

Teeth:
Your pet rats’ incisors should be yellow to orange in color. Rodents’ incisors are always growing and they need to be provided with wood chews, nuts, or bones to help wear them down.

Parasites:
Dogs, cats, and other animals will not get the mites or lice carried by rats. Symptoms are scabs and incessant scratching. A mite spray made for small mammals or birds can be used to eliminate the pests on your rats and in their cages and bedding.

Scabs:
If you can’t put the cause of your pets’ scabs to parasites, or rough play, it could be a food or bedding allergy. Too much protein in your rats’ diet can cause scabbing.

Orange Oil:
Male rats produce orange oil on their backs that gives them a slight musky odor. There is nothing wrong and you can wash it off every month or so, as long as you don’t irritate their skin.

Tumors:
Not all lumps on your pet rat are tumors. Abscesses are common and can be taken care of by your vet.

Pregnancy:
Your pet rat will show signs of pregnancy after two weeks. Her belly will swell and her nipples may protrude. A few hours before giving birth, most rats begin nesting. Giving birth and pregnancy is extremely stressful and a health risk to your pet. It decreases their life span and can go wrong in many ways. It can be difficult to find good homes for the babies which create other problems for the owners of pet rats.

Behaving Like a Rat

2009-01-20T14:00:00.000-08:00

Rats have their own distinct behaviours and understanding them will make your pet rat a more enjoyable companion.

Fighting & Wrestling:
There is a distinct difference between playful wrestling and harmful fighting. Aggression in rats is rare, so you should be able to tell the difference.

A fight will involve actual injuries and probably blood. Separate them as quickly as possible by splashing or spraying them with water until they separate, then reach in and grab one and move him to another cage, or box, until they settle down.

Wrestling is very common in all rats and the kittens (baby rats) do this often. They’ll squeak, pounce, mount, box, chase, and do a lot of rough play. Adolescents (3-8 months in females; 6-12 months for males) will do the same, just rougher. Adults spend most of their time sleeping, grooming, and quiet play - quite content to leave wrestling activities to the young ones.

Mounting:
Mounting, or "mock mating", is seen in both genders, but most commonly in adolescent rats. This behaviour is usually part of play, an outlet for hormones, and not a display of dominance. Mounting lasts a couple of months in male rats. Females will do it longer, usually when they come into heat, which is every five days, or so.

Teeth Grinding, or Chattering:
Called “bruxing”, this behaviour can be a sign of calmness and happiness, or rats will do it when they’re frightened, or very sick. Knowing your pet and its environment will allow you to know the difference.

Licking:
Your pet rats’ will lick as part of their social bonding behaviour. Older rats groom younger ones as a parenting instinct to show domination; younger rats groom older ones in submission. When wrestling, the rat that is pinned down will submissively lick the other one, signalling that the game is over.

Bar Chewing:
Pet rats usually chew the cage bars because they’re bored, or nervous. This behaviour is most common in rats that live alone, so getting a cage-mate and a lot of toys to play with can correct this behaviour. You can take your pet out for longer playtimes, and covering part of the cage and dimming the lights will help. Rats are more at ease in the dark and surrounded by the protection of solid walls.

Being creative communicators, your pet rat may simply be telling you that he’s out of food, or water, or feels his cage needs to be cleaned. A new cage may also bring on this behaviour, but only temporarily.

Head Swaying:
Rats are best at seeing contours and contrasting shades and don't see color or depth very well. To see where something is, rats will sway, causing the nearby objects to appear to move in front of background objects. Your pet will do this often when judging a jump, or when something interesting, or threatening, enters a room.

Urinating:
Rats urinate when scared. They will also do this as a form of territorial marking. You can discourage this latter habit by not letting your pet rat walk on things he habitually marks.

Biting:
Unlike other rodents, rats rarely bite for trivial reasons. If your pet bites, look for the reason and correct it.

Fear. Rats that are handled often and trust people are not likely to bite out of fear. They will be scared if in a recent fight, or if they smell a predator. Rats will also show fear from gloves, socks, Band-Aids, and anything else that covers your hands and feet. Rats recognize you by smell and texture, so these coverings can fool your pet and cause them to bite.

Mistake. If your finger smells like food, your pet may bite thinking it’s a treat. Rats will eventually learn to lick you, rather than bite. A rat can also miss the target when being offered a treat, so try giving only large treats and not through the bars of their cage.

Pain. If you touch an injury where they’re tender, then your pet may bite out of pain. Most won’t bite, but will make puffing, or squeaking, sounds instead.

Motherly Protection. Your pet rat may show aggression when pregnant, or with a litter. This is a natural instinct. Leave her alone until she feels comfortable with your hand in the cage.

Proper Rat Care

2009-01-20T11:58:00.000-08:00

A Good Home:
Provide a large wire cage with horizontal bars so your pet rats can climb on the sides if they wish. Avoid cages with wire flooring which can be hard on the rats’ feet and cause medical problems. If you find a cage with wire balconies and shelves, modify it by covering the floor with a thin sheet of wood, or other solid material.

Minimum cage size should be 12 by 24 inches of floor space. Tall cages with ramps and platforms will give enough room for multiple rats. Aquariums don’t provide good ventilation and have to be cleaned more often.

Your pets’ cage should be placed in a fairly quiet location, but still near the social activity in the home. Don’t place the cage in direct sunlight, or where there’s a draft. Limit access to the cage by other household pets. A rat will feel threatened by a cat or dog hovering outside their home.

Comfortable Bedding:
Use aspen and other hardwood shavings, but avoid cedar and pine wood. Pellet products are very absorbent, but not that comfortable for your pet rats to play and sleep on. Try placing the pellets under a layer of softer loose bedding.
Pet rats should have a nesting box. A simple cardboard box is fine, but has to be replaced often. Wooden boxes can be difficult to clean because any urine will soak into the wood. Plastic boxes will probably get chewed up quite quickly. You can use flowerpots, or a jar placed on its side, or a section of PVC drain pipe with one end covered. Whatever you choose, you will want to provide some nesting material that your pet rats can shred and use to line their nest box. Paper (not inked), tissues, and paper towels all make good nest box linings.

Housekeeping:
Your pet rats will usually choose a bathroom location in one area of the cage. Heavily soiled litter should be scooped out daily and more litter added. The whole cage should be cleaned and new litter and bedding provided at least once a week.

Provide your pet rats with fresh water every day and throw out any uneaten non-dry food, refilling it with new. A monthly disinfecting of the complete rats’ cage is recommended. Use a bleach solution, rinsing the enclosure well afterwards. Bathing and nail clipping once a month will keep your pet well groomed and healthy.

Toys ‘n Stuff:
Rats love to climb. Ladders, ropes, hammocks, tunnels, and platforms are all good accessories for their home. Blocks of wood for chewing, cardboard tubes, and toys designed for ferrets or parrots all make good play things. Choose rope and wood toys as many plastic ones can't stand up to the rats’ constant chewing. Don’t go to great expense for their toys. Cardboard mailing tubes, crumpled paper, paper bags, and cardboard boxes can entertain your pets for hours on end. Rats are intelligent creatures and will get bored with their toys, so change them regularly.

Exercise wheels are a hit and miss item with rats. Some will use them, others won’t. If you do purchase one, don’t buy the common wire kind. Just like the cages, a solid surfaced wheel in preferred.

Heavy ceramic food dishes are sturdy, easy to clean, and don’t tip over easily. A water bottle with a sipper tube can be used for water.

Playtime:
Your pet rats’ should be let out to play for at least an hour every day. Rats love to chew, so you’ll need to do a little rat-proofing. Make sure that electrical wires are out of reach, or encased in plastic tubing. Plants should not be accessible, particularly poisonous ones. Basically, if you don’t want your rats to chew on it, make sure it’s out of their reach.

Are You Feeding Your Pet Rat Properly?

2009-01-15T20:26:00.000-08:00

A common misconception by those who don’t have pet rats is that rats are alley skulking ‘garbage eaters’ where everything placed before them is savagely torn apart and eagerly devoured.

This is not the case and your pet rats need to be fed a well balanced and nutritionally complete diet. Pellets, or pellet blocks, formulated especially for rats should be available from your local pet store and this type of diet is generally considered best for these pets.

Your pet store may carry loose mixes that are very well balanced and complete in dietary needs, but that’s only good if your pet rats eat everything in the mix. Many rats won’t and your pets may be some of those who pick out their favourite bits and leaves the wholesome stuff alone. Feeding your pet rats pellet blocks doesn’t give them the opportunity to pick and choose which parts they want to eat.

If you can’t find a good rat food, a rat and mouse diet that meets the same general requirement of low calorie and low fat is a good compromise.

Hamster, gerbil and other rodent feeds are not a good substitute because their nutritional needs are different and these mixes usually contain alfalfa which is not very digestible to rats.

While rat blocks should make the basic diet, a variety of fresh foods can be used to supplement their meals and help keep your rats healthy and prevent pellet boredom. Your pets can achieve optimum nutrition and health with small amounts of vegetables like broccoli, potatoes, peas and carrots being added to their normal menu. Fruits would include apples, grapes, melons, bananas, and plums.

Your pets can also be given cooked liver and other cooked lean meats, cooked beans and unsweetened breakfast cereals. Pet rats can enjoy leftovers from your own meals if given in moderation and if fatty or sugary scraps are avoided.

Rats have to maintain a high fibre and low fat diet, so it’s necessary to limit your pets’ intake of higher fat foods like cheese, seeds and nuts.

Everybody likes a treat and rats are no exception. Small dog biscuits are good and you can even use some of the fruits to this advantage. Ignore the rats’ sweet tooth and resist the temptations to feed them sugar and chocolate. Even many of the pet store goodies like yogurt drops and treat sticks are quite high in sugar content and fat. When your pet rats give you those eyes, hide the candy bar and give them a blueberry instead.

Besides the sweets already mentioned, avoid giving your pets any raw beans or sweet potato, cabbage, brussel sprouts, green potatoes, caffeinated beverages and carbonated drinks. Strange as it may seem considering what many people think about rats, if it’s not good for humans then it’s probably not good for your pets.

As you can see, rats enjoy a variety in their meals but are not the ‘garbage-hounds’ of lore, at least not our home-bred pet rat varieties. Keep foods in moderation, use common sense, and enjoy your pets.

RATS !

2009-01-14T15:17:00.000-08:00

Rats make excellent household pets. They are intelligent and easily tamed, fairly easy to care for, and their social attributes make them an ideal pet and companion.

Tolerant of some rough handling and being the least nippy of any small pet, rats are one of the best possible pets for children. As pets, they are generally calm animals and an easy pet to recover if they escape. A rat will grow to be 9-11 inches long with an additional 7-9 inches for their tail. Not being solitary animals, rats live much happier and healthier lives in pairs, or groups, regardless of the amount of human attention.

A tall wire cage with horizontal bars for climbing makes an ideal home for your pet. Rats love to climb and will make good use of ladders, ropes, hammocks, tunnels, and platforms. Toys designed for ferrets and parrots work well. And when they tire of their toys, this pet will always enjoy a good wrestling match with your hand.

Dogs, cats, ferrets and large reptiles are predators and will go after your pet rat if given an opportunity, so caution must be exercised when these pets are around. On the other side, your pet rat will hunt smaller animals like mice, gerbils, hamsters, or small birds. Make sure their cages are secure because rats are crafty pets and may be able to open some of the doors.

Rats do not normally lead long lives. Pet store rats may live 2-3 years, while those from breeders can live 4-5 years. Pellets and block type diets are available for rats from most pet stores and your pet rat will benefit from a variety of vegetables, fruits and other fresh foods that help to keep them healthy

Male rats can have a mild to moderate body odor, but females don’t have any. Rats tend to designate a specific ‘potty’ area in their home and will become trained to go there with no coaxing at all.

Pet rats are available in most pet stores and can often be adopted from local animal rescue shelters. Rats do come in several varieties and a large range of colors, so if you want to look at a bigger selection of these pets then reputable breeders may be a better choice.

Domesticated by centuries of breeding, pet rats are not generally wild, aggressive or nervous animals and make good pets with little effort. Rats love and need interaction with people. They like being petted and no matter how many rats you have, all of them will want to be with you.

Veterinarian’s Education

2009-01-13T21:20:00.000-08:00

A veterinarian’s education includes four years of undergraduate education plus four years of graduate work.

Prospective veterinarians must graduate from a 4-year program at an accredited college of veterinary medicine with a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine (D.V.M. or V.M.D.) degree and obtain a license to practice. There are 28 colleges in 26 States that meet accreditation standards set by the Council on Education of the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA). The prerequisites for admission vary by veterinary medical college.

Many of these colleges do not require a bachelor's degree for entrance, but all require a significant number of credit hours ranging from 45 to 90 semester hours at the undergraduate level. However, most of the students admitted have completed an undergraduate program. Applicants without a bachelor’s degree face a difficult task gaining admittance.

Pre-veterinary courses emphasize the sciences. Veterinary medical colleges typically require classes in organic and inorganic chemistry, physics, biochemistry, general biology, animal biology, animal nutrition, genetics, vertebrate embryology, cellular biology, microbiology, zoology, and systemic physiology. Some programs require calculus; some require only statistics, college algebra and trigonometry, or pre-calculus. Most veterinary medical colleges also require core courses, including some in English or literature, the social sciences, and the humanities. Increasingly, courses in practice management and career development are becoming a standard part of the curriculum to provide a foundation of general business knowledge for new graduates.

In addition to satisfying pre-veterinary course requirements, applicants must also submit test scores from the Graduate Record Examination (GRE), the Veterinary College Admission Test (VCAT), or the Medical College Admission Test (MCAT), depending on the preference of each college. Currently, 21 schools require the GRE, 5 require the VCAT, and 2 accept the MCAT.

Some veterinary medical colleges place heavy consideration on a candidate’s veterinary and animal experience in admittance decisions. Formal experience, such as work with veterinarians or scientists in clinics, agribusiness, research, or some area of health science, is particularly advantageous. Less formal experience, such as working with animals on a farm or ranch or at a stable or animal shelter, is also helpful. Students must demonstrate ambition and an eagerness to work with animals.

There is keen competition for admission to veterinary school. The number of accredited veterinary colleges has largely remained the same since 1983, whereas the number of applicants has risen significantly. Only about 1 in 3 applicants was accepted in 2002. Most veterinary medical colleges are public, State-supported institutions and reserve the majority of their openings for in-state residents, making admission for out-of-state applicants difficult.

While in veterinary medical college, students receive additional academic instruction in the basic sciences for the first 2 years. Later in the program, students are exposed to clinical procedures, such as diagnosing and treating animal diseases and performing surgery. They also do laboratory work in anatomy, biochemistry, medicine, and other scientific subjects. At most veterinary medical colleges, students who plan a career in research can earn both a D.V.M. degree and a Doctor of Philosophy (Ph.D.) degree at the same time.

Veterinary graduates who plan to work with specific types of animals typically choose to pursue additional education in 1 of 20 AVMA recognized veterinary specialties such as pathology, internal medicine, dentistry, ophthalmology, surgery, radiology, preventive medicine, or laboratory animal medicine usually in the form of a 2-year internship. Interns receive a small salary but usually find that their internship experience leads to a higher beginning salary, relative to those of other starting veterinarians. Veterinarians who seek board certification in a specialty must also complete a 3- to 4-year residency program that provides intensive training in specialties, such as internal medicine, oncology, radiology, surgery, dermatology, anaesthesiology, neurology, cardiology, ophthalmology, and exotic small-animal medicine.

All States and the District of Columbia require that veterinarians be licensed before they can practice. The only exemptions are for veterinarians working for some Federal agencies and some State governments. Licensing is controlled by the States and is not strictly uniform, although all States require successful completion of the D.V.M. degree or equivalent education and passage of a national board examination. The Educational Commission for Foreign Veterinary Graduates (ECFVG) grants certification to individuals trained outside the United States who demonstrate that they meet specified requirements for the English language and clinical proficiency. ECFVG certification fulfills the educational requirement for licensure in all States except Nebraska. Applicants for licenses must satisfy the examination requirement by passing the North American Veterinary Licensing Exam (NAVLE). The NAVLE, administered by computer, takes one day to complete and consists of 360 multiple-choice questions, covering all aspects of veterinary medicine. The NAVLE also includes visual materials designed to test diagnostic skills, comprising 10 percent of the total examination.

The majority of States also require candidates to pass a State jurisprudence examination covering State laws and regulations. Some States also do additional testing on clinical competency. There are few reciprocal agreements between States, making it difficult for a veterinarian to practice in a different State without first taking another State examination.
Nearly all States have continuing education requirements for licensed veterinarians. Requirements differ by State and may involve attending a class or otherwise demonstrating knowledge of recent medical and veterinary advances.
Most veterinarians begin as employees in established practices. Despite the substantial financial investment in equipment, office space, and staff, many veterinarians with experience set up their own practice or purchase an established one.

Newly trained veterinarians can become U.S. Government meat and poultry inspectors, disease-control workers, animal welfare and safety workers, epidemiologists, research assistants, or commissioned officers in the U.S. Public Health Service or various branches of the U.S. Armed Forces. A State license may be required.

Prospective veterinarians must have good manual dexterity. They should have an affinity for animals and the ability to get along with animal owners, especially when working with pet owners who tend to form a strong bond with their pet. Veterinarians who intend to go into private practice should possess excellent communication and business skills because they will need to successfully manage their practice and employees and will need to promote, market, and sell their services.

Animal Technical Training School
http://www.technical-schools-guide.com/animaltraining-schools.html

Ref: American Veterinary Medical Association
http://www.avma.org/

Ref: U.S. Department of Labor
http://www.dol.gov/

Ref: Unknown author
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_long_does_it_take_to_become_a_veterinarian

Veterinarians Can Earn a Good Income

2009-01-13T09:11:00.000-08:00

Anyone entering the veterinary profession can earn a respectable annual wage, but with the years of schooling and high cost of graduating, is it enough?

The annual wage a veterinarian can earn depends on a number of variables, including where you live and the specific field of practice. Other considerations in determining how much a veterinarian can earn include whether you are a partner or owner in a practice, if there are many other competing veterinarians in your area, and length of experience. Longer practicing veterinarians can normally earn a higher annual wage.

Generally, a veterinarian can earn a good income. The US Bureau of Labor Statistics says the annual wage for a veterinarian is about $75,000. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, vets can earn $65,200 per year while the annual wage for vets in Federal Government is $78,769.

In addition to a salary, veterinarians usually receive benefits such as sick days, health coverage, and paid vacation. Self-employed veterinarians must provide their own benefits.

It usually takes 8 years to be a veterinarian - 4 years in college plus 4 years in a school of veterinary medicine. The median debt for veterinary school graduates in the U.S. is $120,000. Of these graduates, 20% have debts in excess of $160,000.

Veterinary graduates should not expect instant financial success. If you want to be a vet because of how much you think you can earn then you’ll probably be disappointed. To be a vet you must enter the profession because your heart tells you to, not because of how much you can earn.

Pet Rocks and You

2009-01-08T22:23:00.000-08:00

At some point in our lives, we all consider getting a pet. Unless your heart is set on a specific species, the choices are many and the decision complex. Rocks may very well be the one pet most suited to you and your lifestyle.

Solid and hearty, Rocks require minimal care and blend into any environment. Pet Rocks easily take to apartment living, or effortlessly tackle large acreage homes. No matter what hours you work, the Rock's playtime will always fit your schedule.

Rocks normally have docile temperaments and do not bark, shed, claw curtains, or destroy furniture. They’ll not dig where they shouldn’t and will always be content to sit on your lap and watch television if that’s your desire.

The origin of Rocks is still being debated, but they are believed to have been here well before the dinosaur. Pet Rocks fall into three classes: Igneous is the most common and comes in basic granite and flint greys; Sedimentary is not as durable and will be chalk, or sandstone, in colour; the Metamorphic requires more care than the others and will be slate and marble coloured. Rocks come in almost limitless shapes and sizes.

A Rock's digestive system is strong, so feeding isn’t a problem. Like camels and snakes (neither being related to the Rock), this pet can go for long periods without food or water. Whatever you can eat or drink, so can the Rock. As a word of caution, the Rock enjoys a good barbeque, deep fried foods and beer. Care should be taken to give these in moderation.

Your pet Rock will sleep wherever you put him. A small mat on the ground and a light blanket will keep your pet comfortable. Some younger Rocks may benefit from sleeping with one of your shirts or blouses until they become comfortable in their new surroundings. It’s unusual for a Rock to wake you during the night unless he’s not feeling well, or has to go outside. Your Rock will rarely chew on shoes, or slippers.

Rocks live equally well alone, or in a group. They get along with other pets, but young children have been known to throw them around. Rocks love to be cuddled and enthusiastically shower their owners with kisses. Your pet doesn’t need to be bathed more than a couple times a year and letting him sit in the rain for a few hours will usually be sufficient. Rocks have a stable metabolism and rarely get sick.

Your pet Rock will love to take long walks with you and they never seem to tire. A short leash is adequate and harnesses are preferred for smaller Rocks, otherwise collars are fine.

Breeding of Rocks isn’t complicated since the Rock mates with itself. At this point, very little is known about their unusual mating habits. The offspring are referred to as stones, or pebbles.

With pet Rocks, the most difficult decision you’ll have to make is which one of these cuddly little critters you’ll take home.

Pet Classifieds

2009-01-08T07:56:00.000-08:00

This is a listing of classified ads for pets of all kinds, all over the world. These selected sites are free and normally have a search engine so you can find a pets location nearest you. For the most part they also provide free listings for the sale or adoption of your pet.

Alboa Classifieds
http://www.alboa.com

Central Pets
http://www.centralpets.com/cgi-bin/classifieds/classifieds.cgi

Classified Extra
http://www.classifiedextra.ca/

Find a Pet Online
http://www.findapetonline.com

Got Pets Online
http://www.gotpetsonline.com/cgi-bin/Eware/view_ads.cgi

Kijiji USA Free Classifieds
http://www.kijiji.com

Pet Classifieds
http://www.petclassifieds.us

Pets 4 Homes
http://www.pets4homes.co.uk

Pets Ads
http://www.petsads.com

Pets United Kingdom
http://www.adoos.co.uk/l/pet

Pets BC
www.petsbc.com

US Freeads
http://www.usfreeads.com/_pets-and-animals

Snake Website Resources and Links:

2009-01-06T07:38:00.000-08:00

Here are a few sites that I found interesting and very informative.

About Snakes.com
http://www.aboutsnakes.com/
Good website for snakes. Has decent resources for information.

Animal Hospitals - USA
http://animalhospitals-usa.com/home.html
Wide range of animals, including good section on reptiles. Good health advice.

Boa Tips.com
http://www.boatips.com/
Excellent resource for Boas, plus additional general snake info.

Kidzone
http://www.kidzone.ws/lw/snakes/facts.htm
Full of interesting information on snakes and reptiles.

Your First Snake

2009-01-06T07:06:00.000-08:00

If you think that a snake is the pet for you, then do as much research as you can so you know the requirements needed in the raising and care of your new pet. Here are some suggested choices for your first snake based on temperaments, ease of handling, and overall level of maintenance required.

Ball Python:
Like most pythons, the Ball Python is a curious and gentle snake. They are a slow moving, calm reptile that will grow to be 4-5 feet long and live for 20-30 years. These snakes are called 'Ball Pythons' because, when frightened, they coil around their head and into a ball.

Corn Snakes:
The Corn snake will stay fairly small at 3-4 feet and live to be 8-12 years old. This snake is a hardy, docile species that comes in a large range of bright colors. They are good eaters and can tolerate a range of environments, so maintenance is fairly easy. Corn snakes received their name from the pattern on their belly which looks like Indian corn.

King Snakes:
The King snake will grow 3-7 feet long and can live for 20 years, or more. This snake is relatively docile, but will try to eat its cage mates, so they should be housed on their own. Because they prey on and eat other snakes, they became known as the King snake.

Milk Snakes:
The Milk snake is closely related to the King snake and, like its cousin, will feed on other snakes so it should be housed by itself. The come in a range of colors like the King, but slightly less brilliant. They grow from 3-7 feet and may live to 20 years. They received their name from a legend that says they would ‘milk’ cows.

Those are the four recommended choices for your first foray into the world of snakes.

Snakes: Diseases and Infections

2009-01-05T22:26:00.000-08:00

This is a capsulated listing of diseases and infections that may affect your pet snake. If you require more detailed information on any of these ailments, you can visit the website(s) listed at the end which contain excellent material on health issues for reptiles.

General Diseases:

Constipation:
Causes include inadequate temperatures, illness, dehydration, injuries and parasites. Constipated snakes should be allowed to soak in warm water for 20-30 minutes daily for 1-2 days. This often results in defecation and/or urination.

Cloacoliths:
Dehydration of captive snakes may result in drying out of urinary excretions. Uric acid "stones" tend to form within the cloaca (posterior opening). This causes constipation. Cloacoliths can usually be removed by a veterinarian.

Prolapses:
This occurs when an organ inverts itself inside out and protrudes through the usual external opening of that organ. Prolapses of the cloaca and reproductive organs are not uncommon among captive snakes. Veterinary assistance is essential.

Abnormal shedding:
The normal shedding process has been interrupted, resulting in a partial shed and retained eye caps. Causes include internal disease, inadequate humidity, injury to the skin and scales, parasites, lack of adequate objects against which to rub at the beginning of the shed, and thyroid gland problems. Treatment is soaking the snake in warm water for several hours. A damp towel can then be used to gently peel off stubborn skin fragments. Alternatively, roll the snake snugly in warm moist, heavy towels and allowing it to crawl out, leaving the stubborn skin fragments behind.

Retained eye caps:
This is often caused by an abnormal shed. The caps must first be softened by repeated application of a suitable eye ointment. A veterinarian is suggested.

Cancer:
Boa constrictors seem to be more affected by cancer than other snakes. Snake owners should see a veterinarian when a lump is detected on their snake.

Organ Failure:
This may be the result of advancing age or cancer, but is usually a consequence of chronic and unchecked disease among snakes.

Nutritional Deficiencies:
This is rare among captive snakes because they eat whole prey animals. Exclusive use of immature prey animals and a lack of variety in their meals can create this problem.

INJURIES:

Rostral Abrasions:
This happens when snakes rub their noses against the walls of their enclosure searching for a means to escape. This damages the scales and skin of the nose. Preventative help can be additions of artificial plants and branches to provide hiding spots. A barrier of bark paint, or plastic film along the lower 3-4 inches of the walls often helps.

Abscesses:
External abscesses usually result from bite wounds by live prey animals. These can be surgically opened and flushed by a veterinarian. Abscesses within the body are not so easy and a blood workup and/or x-rays may be necessary to confirm their presence and treatment.

INFECTIONS:

Mouth Rot:
A progressive bacterial infection involving the oral lining which may begin with increased salivation. As the disease progresses, underlying bone becomes infected and the teeth fall out. This infection must be caught in the early stages to reverse it.

Blister Disease:
Common with reptiles kept in damp, filthy environments. The first sign is a pink appearance of the bottom-most scales. The scales will become swollen and infected. Veterinary care is required.

Septicemia: (Generalized internal infections)
Bacteria may invade the body by way of wounds and abscesses, or as a consequence of serious illness. Signs may include lethargy, anorexia, dehydration, and regurgitation of incompletely digested food, redness to the skin and scales, or bleeding from the skin. The help of a veterinarian is essential and recovery odds are poor.

Respiratory infections:
Common in snakes and may be associated with septicemia (body-wide illness), viral infections and mouth rot. Signs include loud respiration, discharge and/or bubbling from the nostrils and/or mouth, coughing and open-mouth breathing. Veterinarian care is needed.

Eye Infections:
Infections may be superficial or more extensive, involving the entire eye. Superficial infections may result from mild injury to the eye and can become established below a retained eye cap. Veterinary help is essential with these cases.

Viral Infections:
Viral infections in snakes are extremely difficult to detect and identify and equally difficult or impossible to treat. Some viral infections result in abnormal skin growths while others cause digestive, respiratory and nervous system disease among snakes.

Fungal Infections:
Most of these infections involve the skin and respiratory system. Fungal infections of the eyes normally occur in snakes housed in damp, contaminated environments. Ringworm fungi that usually infect people, pets and livestock have also caused skin infections of snakes. A veterinarian must examine snakes exhibiting problems with their skin and/or eyes as soon as possible.

PARASITES:

Parasitic Diseases:
Snakes can be hosts to a large number of parasites that can cause serious diseases of their digestive, respiratory, reproductive and vascular blood systems.

With pet snakes, most parasites are carried with them into captivity, or they become parasitized while being held in generally crowded wholesale and retail channels. Pet snakes living in homes are unlikely to develop parasite problems in their relatively isolated environments.

A few of the more common parasite problems are:

Tapeworms and Roundworms inhabit the digestive tract, but the early stages can cause disease to the lungs and other organs.

Mites and ticks parasitize the skin and scales of snakes, and create disease by feeding on the host's blood.

External parasites are usually easy to diagnose and visual inspection of the skin and scales, with or without a magnifying lens, is usually all that is necessary.

Internal parasite problems require examination of blood and feces. Microscopic examination is usually necessary.

Amebiasis:
Eating contaminated food and water containing the infective stage of this parasite infects snakes and causes extensive damage to the intestinal lining and liver. Signs include listlessness, loss of appetite, and foul-smelling feces containing mucus and blood.

Trichomoniasis:
This organism is often noted in the stools of snakes. Infection may result from ingestion of mice and rats, both of which often harbour the parasite without showing signs of illness. Symptoms can be loss of appetite, vomiting, and diarrhoea.

Snake Mite Infestation:
Snake mites are tiny spider-like organisms that reside on and between the scales of snakes and around their eyes. They are relatively easy to see with the unaided eye. Originate in unhygienic conditions.

Snake Tick Infestation:
Ticks resemble oversized mites and occupy many of the same sites on the skin and scales of snakes as mites. They are often found just inside the mouth, nostrils or vent. Manual removal of each individual tick is the most expedient treatment. Exercise great care in performing this task because simply pulling off the tick leaves the tick's mouth parts embedded in the skin. A small amount of alcohol applied to the exposed parts of the tick causes it to relax and facilitates removal.

For more detailed information on health issues relating to reptiles you can visit:

Animal Hospitals-USA

In all cases where symptoms persist, veterinary help is recommended for the safety and health of your pet.

Your Snake’s New Home

2009-01-05T13:55:00.000-08:00

There is a high risk of salmonella infection with reptiles of any kind, so the cleaning of equipment and enclosures should be done somewhere besides the kitchen. Disinfect cleaning surfaces with bleach and always wash your hands with soap and warm water after handling your snake

Your pet’s new home:

Snakes require relatively little space because of their limited activity. The size of the enclosure should be large enough to allow the snake adequate room to stretch out and move around. Aquariums, or other similar glass and Plexiglas-lined enclosures, are usually the best because they allow a good visual of your pet and still allow you to maintain suitable safety and environmental temperature and humidity levels.

Wire-lined enclosures cannot maintain proper temperature and humidity levels and present a problem with injuries to the nose of your snake because they will try and escape through the wire mesh. Any enclosure must have a secure top and be escape-proof.

Good homes need good flooring:

Unprinted newsprint, butcher paper, paper towels, terrycloth towels and indoor-outdoor carpeting are the most suitable materials for covering the bottom of a snake's home. Do not use pea gravel, kitty litter, or wood shavings because they make the snakes house too difficult to clean and will trap moisture and filth, becoming a home to external parasites. And these materials can be accidentally eaten while the snake is feeding, causing injury to the digestive tract.

Contents of your pet’s home:

Your snake’s home should include some sturdy branches of various hardwood trees, or those fabricated from artificial materials. You can also include hanging ropes and driftwood.

Snakes need privacy and a place to go when feeding since some reptiles do not like to feed while in the open. You can use a couple of boxes they can curl up inside, and you can use silk artificial plants which are easy to clean and disinfect. These help with the humidity because they can be misted frequently. And this all makes your snake’s home look nice.

Controlled Temperatures:

Tropical snakes like the Boa and Python require daytime temperatures between 80 and 85° F. At night, the temperatures can fall between 70 and 75 F without creating problems. Large enclosures can have heat lamps, or heaters, equipped with thermostats. Small enclosures can be adequately heated by placing a heating pad directly underneath them.

Plan to heat only half the enclosure so the snake has a cooler place to retreat to when it wants. Exposed heat sources must be shielded to protect snakes from serious burns as they will attempt to warm themselves by coiling right against them.

Check these appliances frequently for malfunction and periodically check the snake for evidence of burns because snakes generally do not move away from heat-generating appliances even if they are being severely burned.

Humidity and Water:

Snakes should have clean water for drinking and bathing. Normally, this will also meet the humidity needs your snake requires. If it doesn’t, then you can place the water dish under the light or heater. This will increase evaporation and, subsequently, increase the humidity. If you do this, then a second dish of water should be placed away from the heat source as snakes do not like to drink hot water.

Proper Lighting:

The next best solution to natural light is an artificial ultraviolet light source rather than fluorescent or incandescent light bulbs. It is best to supply 2-12 hours of daylight and 12-14 hours of darkness each day, with a gradual increase in the number of hours of light in spring and a gradual decrease in the fall and winter months. You want to make the environment as natural as possible.

General Housekeeping:

Water containers must be cleaned regularly and thoroughly to avoid bacterial build-ups that will make your snake sick.

Disinfect the snake's enclosure and furnishings at least once every 2-4 weeks.

Give Your Snake a Healthy Diet

2009-01-05T11:31:00.000-08:00

Snakes can normally be fed every five to fourteen days, so feeding schedules are fairly easy to maintain. The question that many have is whether to feed their snake live prey, or pre-killed stock.

Unless you know that your snake will quickly kill the prey, feeding them a pre-killed meal is recommended in order to avoid potential injury inflicted by its prey. Some pet stores will sell frozen prey, or fresh killed prey you can freeze for later.

Snakes will usually take well to pre-killed prey, particularly if started at a young age. If you get a snake that has been used to eating live prey, you may need to start out offering freshly killed prey at first. Frozen prey should be completely thawed and warmed before feeding.

Most snakes should be fed a size of prey that is about the same diameter as the snake's body at its widest point. As your snake grows, you will have to adjust the size of prey being fed to accommodate the snake's increasing size.

Caution has to be exercised when feeding more than one snake at a time. Serious problems result when two snakes choose to feed on the same prey. If one snake takes the front of a mouse and other attacks at the tail of the same one, neither snake will surrender its hold. Both snakes will continue to feed and eventually one will devour the other. When two snakes are housed in the same enclosure, they should be fed individually by holding the prey animal in long forceps or tongs.

After eating, snakes become dormant while the process of digestion takes place. When undisturbed, the digestive process is highly efficient. The snake's digestive enzymes will dissolve and absorb everything but the prey's hair and claws, which are excreted along with waste. At this time, the snake should not be disturbed, or it will often regurgitate its prey in order to escape a perceived threat

The following is a list of preferred prey animals for the snakes most commonly kept in captivity:

Boa Constrictors, Pythons, Rat Snakes, Gopher or Bull Snakes:
Warm-blooded prey is preferred (rodents and birds). They may also eat very small lizards and snakes. Some tree boas and pythons prefer lizards to mammals and birds.

Garter Snakes, Ribbon Snakes and Water Snakes:
Fish, frogs, salamanders, toads, earthworms, slugs and carrion are preferred. Many accept dead mice if they are covered with the external mucus of frogs or fish before they are offered.

Indigo Snakes, King Snakes, and many Racers:
Warm-blooded (mice, etc.) and cold-blooded prey (other snakes, lizards, etc.) are preferred. The indigo snake prefers frogs but may eat anything when hungry, including dog or cat food.

Ring-neck, or Brown Snakes, and their relatives:
Salamanders, earthworms, very small snakes and lizards are the food of choice.

Racers, Vine Snakes, and Coachwhips:
Lizards are preferred. Racers also eat mice and chicks of ground-nesting birds. The young of these snakes eat large insects, such as crickets and grasshoppers.

Snakes – General Characteristics

2009-01-05T09:00:00.000-08:00

There are over 2,900 species of snakes and although each type may have its own individual needs, they all share common characteristics.

Snakes are said to be cold-blooded, but that’s not completely true. They are able to internally reproduce and regulate their body temperature, but just can’t do it effectively. This makes the snake ectothermic which means that they rely largely on external sources for heat, but not totally. To cool themselves, ectotherms simply move into a cooler area.

All snakes are meat eating carnivores and belong to the same group as lizards, turtles and crocodiles. They are found on every continent except Antarctica. Snakes do not have eyelids, or external ears, and their visions vary greatly. Some are almost blind, while others have excellent sight. The tree climbers see well and burrowing snakes have almost non-existent eyesight.

For those that have never touched a snake, it’s commonly believed that snakes are slimy. This misconception is thought to come from an association with worms. Snakes are covered in scales and have a smooth, dry textured feel to them.

Snakes shed their ‘skin’ once or twice a year through a process called moulting. The younger that are still growing may shed up to four times a year. Before moulting, a snake will stop eating and normally moves to a safe place. The skin will become dry and dull, with the eyes going cloudy, or blue-colored. The inner surface of the old outer skin liquefies which causes it to separate from the new skin. After a few days, the eyes clear and the snake will crawl out of its old skin by rubbing against rough surfaces. In many cases, the skin peels backward over the body from head to tail in one piece. This renewing of the skin is believed to be the reason snakes have been used as a symbol of healing and medicine.

Like any animal, snakes do have an odor. They don’t smell bad and most people don’t even notice unless their cages are not cleaned regularly.

Snakes are not aggressive and would rather slither away than have any confrontation with humans. Other than hunting food, snakes will normally only attack a person if it is grabbed, or unexpectedly disturbed.

A snake tracks prey by using its forked tongue to collect airborne particles that are ‘examined’ by sensory organs in the mouth. This fork in the tongue gives the snake a simultaneous sense of smell and taste. The tongue is always in motion, sampling chemicals in the air in search of prey, or predators.

The part of the snakes’ body contacting the ground is very sensitive to vibration and a snake can sense the faint vibrations of approaching animals. Some snakes, like pit vipers and pythons, have infrared-sensitive receptors in deep grooves between the nostril and eye, or pits on their upper lip just below the nostrils (common in pythons), which allow them to see radiated heat.

A snake has the most unique jaw of any animal. Snakes do not dislocate their jaws as commonly thought. They have a very flexible lower jaw that allows them to open their mouths wide enough to swallow their prey whole. Snakes have teeth, but they are made for grabbing and holding, not chewing.

The majority of snakes are solitary animals and only come together to breed. Some snakes lay eggs while others, like boas, give live birth. Snake parents do not rear their young and baby snakes are left alone to fend for themselves immediately after birth.

Snakes have four ways of moving around. The “concertina” method is when snakes bunch themselves up and then throw themselves forward. A “serpentine” motion is what most people think of when they think of snakes. The snake will push off a surface (rocks, trees, etc.) to get going and will then move in a wavy motion. “Sidewinding” is when the snake lifts the middle of its body up and then pushes it down, forcing the head to move forward. The “rectilinear” method is a slow, creeping, straight movement. The snake uses some of the wide scales on its belly to grip the ground while pushing forward with the others.

Naming Your Pet

2009-01-03T15:15:00.000-08:00

Finding a suitable and unique name for your pet can be a frustrating task. Here are a few websites that may help you out.

Boogie Pets
http://www.boogiepets.com/

Alphabetic listing of names plus quick search.
Provides names by pet type and gender.

Bow Wow Meow
http://www.bowwow.com.au/single/index.asp

Even has a section where you can find out what your pet’s name means.
Have tips on naming your pet.
Search engine for names of all kinds

Pets Name
http://www.petsname.net/

Has listing for dogs, cats and pets names.
Also has links to other sites for unique pets’ names.

Pet Names World
http://www.petnamesworld.com/

Boast having over 11,000 pet names.
Names often show their meaning and place of origin.

Pet Net
http://www.pet-net.net/namethatpet.htm

A long list of pet names, including country specific and non-gender.
Has pet horoscope section as well as free pet classifieds.

Snakes as Pets

2009-01-01T00:23:00.000-08:00

Ever since the dawn of man, people have been fascinated by snakes. This serpent has been an embellishment of evil ever since it handed the apple to Adam in the fabled Garden of Eden. Every mythical sorcerer and underworld Lord has one by his side, the hissing presence used to fill their foes with fear. The asp was Cleopatra’s demise; movies and storybooks readily associate snakes with death and horror.

We cringe at the sight of them taking prey, disgusted by the spectacle of their victims being swallowed alive and intact, yet we watch in quiet fascination as the scene unfolds before us. Snakes continue to fill the nightmares of children and adults, so why would anybody want to have a one as a pet? Whatever the reason, owning a snake is becoming quite commonplace these days.

Snakes are definitely not a pet for everyone, but if you’re interested then do some serious research. Be aware of the commitment involved. For some obvious reasons, not all snakes make good pets and each species has its own diet and environmental needs. New owners should start out with a gentler species like garter snakes, corn snakes, king snakes, or ball pythons. They’re not as difficult to provide healthy diets and environments for.

These types are relatively small (as snakes go), with adults ranging from 4-5 feet up to 7 feet for King snakes. Because their life spans can reach 20 years for the Corn and King snakes, and 40 plus years for the Ball Python, snake ownership is a long term obligation.

Unless you’re experienced with snakes, stay away from Burmese Pythons, Red-tailed Boas (Boa constrictors), tree Boas or Pythons, water snakes, or any snakes caught and taken from the wild. These varieties grow from 10-20 feet in length and can weigh in excess of 200 lbs for the Burmese Python. Each has strict temperature and humidity requirements in addition to the obvious problems of handling a reptile that large. Being prone to illness and difficult to feed, wild snakes simply do not do well in captivity.

Anacondas and reticulated Pythons are definitely not recommended. Their size and poor temperaments make for a dangerous pet. Ownership of any venomous snake should be an understandable no.

Like any exotic animal, taking proper care of snakes can be complex and requires a great deal of dedication. Taking a snake as your pet should be done for the right reasons, not because it’ll keep the in-laws away.

Hedgehogs: Website Resources and Links

2008-12-30T15:35:00.000-08:00

Here’s a list of websites I found that contain some good information and resources on hedgehogs.

About.com: Exotic Pets
http://exoticpets.about.com/cs/hedgehogs/ht/handlehh.htm
Good articles on all aspects of hedgehog ownership and there is a detailed section on our to pick up and handle these pets.

Hedgies.com
http://www.hedgies.com
Nice resource materials, including health care information.

Hedgehog Central
http://hedgehogcentral.com/introduction.shtml
Another good looking website with decent information.

Petite Paws Exotics – Hedgehog Home Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/petitepaws/hedge.html

The Inernational Hedgehog Association
http://hedgehogclub.com/care.html

HedgeHogs: Pets
http://hedgehogs-pets.blogspot.com

Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hedgehog

Hedgehogs: Almost Every Colour Imaginable

2008-12-30T15:25:00.000-08:00

There is no shortage of colours when it comes to your pet hedgehog. With over 90 colour variations, choosing the colour of your pet can be as difficult a choice as selecting the paint shade for your bedroom.

The International Hedgehog Association currently recognizes the following colours:

THE DOMINANT WHITE-BELLIED HEDGEHOG COLOURS

SALT & PEPPER: The spines are white, banded with black. No more than 5% of the quills are to be solid white. The face is white with a black mask, ears and nose. The under body hair is white. Black mottling of the underbelly is extensive. Skin on the shoulders is jet-black. The nose is black.

DARK GREY: Spines are white, banded by black with very narrow rusty-brown outer edges. All other features are the same as Salt & Pepper except that the skin on the shoulders is dark grey, almost black. The nose is black.

GREY: Spines are white, banded by black with rusty-brown outer edges. There is some mottling of the underbelly and the face is masked by black. The skin over the shoulders is grey. The nose is black.

BROWN: Spines are white, banded by light oak-brown. No more than 5% of the spines are to be solid white. A light mask is acceptable. The eyes have a light blue ring around the outer edges. Mottling of the skin is not preferred and the skin on the shoulders is pink with a small amount of grey pigmentation. The nose is liver, mottled with black.

CINNAMON: Spines are white, banded by light cinnamon brown. No more than 5% of the spines are to be solid white. The face is not masked. The underbelly is white and mottling of the skin is not preferred. Skin on the shoulders is pink. The nose is liver.

DARK CINNICOT: Spines are white, with 75% of the spines banded by cinnamon and 25% by pale orange-beige. The skin over the shoulders is pink. The face is not masked.The nose is liver with a pink outer rim.

BLACK-EYED CINNICOT: Spines are white, with 50% banded by cinnamon and the remainder by pale orange-beige. The skin over the shoulders is pink. The face is not masked. The nose is pink and liver mottled and the eyes are black.

RUBY-EYED CINNICOT: Spines are white, with 50% banded by cinnamon and the remainder by pale orange-beige. The skin over the shoulders is pink. The face is not masked and the nose is pink and liver mottled. The eyes are dark ruby-red.

CHAMPAGNE: Spines are white, with 75% banded by pale orange-beige, with the remainder banded by cinnamon. The skin over the shoulders is pink. The face is not masked. The nose is pink with a liver outer rim and the eyes are ruby-red.

APRICOT: Spines are white, banded by pale orange-beige. The underbody is white.The face is not masked. The eyes are ruby-red. The nose is pink.

PALE APRICOT: Spines are white, banded by extremely pale orange-yellow. The under body is white. The face is not masked. The eyes are ruby-red and the nose is pink.

SNOWFLAKE COLOURS

The Snowflake category comprises those animals that possess a fairly even mix of banded and non-banded spines. This gives the hedgehog the appearance of having a light "snowflake'' dusting over its back. This is a recessive variation of the dominant colours.

SILVER: The spines are white, banded with black. 30-50% of the quills are to be solid white. The face is white with a black mask, ears and nose. The under body hair is white. Black mottling of the underbelly is extensive. Skin on the shoulders is jet-black and the nose is black.

SILVER CHARCOAL: Like the Charcoal, except that the coloured spines are white, banded by light grey. All other features are the same as Charcoal. Skin on the shoulders is dark grey, almost black. The nose is black.

CHARCOAL: (Grey Snowflake) Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by black with rusty-brown edges. There is some mottling of the underbelly and the face is masked by black. he skin over the shoulders is grey. The nose is black.

CHOCOLATE CHIP: Chocolate Snowflake. Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by chocolate-brown. All other features are the same as Chocolate. The nose is dark liver, almost black.

BROWN SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light oak-brown. Some spines may also be banded by chocolate, but this is not preferred. A light mask is acceptable. The eyes have a light blue ring around the outer edges (the sclera). Mottling of the skin is not preferred and the skin over the shoulders is pink with a small amount of grey pigmentation.

CINNAMON) SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white (50% is considered ideal). The remainder are white, banded by light brown. The face is not masked. The underbelly is solid white with no mottling. Skin over the shoulders is pink.The nose is liver coloured, mottled with black.

SILVER-CINNAMON SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light grey. All other features are the same as Cinnamon Snowflake.

DARK CINNICOT SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, with 75% of the spines banded by cinnamon and 25% by pale orange-beige. The skin over the shoulders is pink. The face is not masked.

BLACK-EYED CINNICOT SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, with 50% banded by cinnamon and the remainder by pale orange-beige. The skin over the shoulders is pink. The face is not masked. The nose is pink and liver mottled. The eyes are black. The nose is liver with a pink outer rim.

RUBY-EYED CINNICOT SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white. Spines are white, with 50% banded by cinnamon and the remainder by pale orange-beige. The skin over the shoulders is pink. The face is not masked. The nose is pink and liver mottled.

CHAMPAGNE SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, with 75% banded by pale orange-beige, with the remainder banded by cinnamon. The skin over the shoulders is pink. The face is not masked. The nose is pink with a liver outer rim. The eyes are ruby-red.

APRICOT SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by pale orange-beige. The underbody is white. The face has no mask. The eyes are ruby-red. The nose is pink.

PALE APRICOT SNOWFLAKE: Between 30 and 70% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by extremely pale orange-beige. The underbody is white. The face has no mask. The eyes are ruby-red. The nose is pink.

WHITE COLOURS

The White category comprises those animals that possess almost 100% solid white spines. The few banded spines that these hedgehogs have are localized to the forehead area, with a few possible across the remainder of the back. These few banded spines on the back, however, should count no more than 10. Any more than this and it is categorized as a Snowflake.

There are a total of 15 White possibilities in the White-Bellied colour spectrum. The Double-White variant can be described in the same manner as any of the White colours with the exception of there being no banded quills anywhere on the body.

PLATINUM: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light grey. Ears are black and the face is masked by black. Skin over the shoulders is jet-black. Mottling of the underbelly is extensive. The nose is black.

SILVER CHARCOAL WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light grey. Ears are black and the face is masked by black. Skin over the shoulders is dark grey, almost black. Mottling of the underbelly is extensive. The nose is black.

CHARCOAL WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by black with rusty-brown edges. There is some mottling of the underbelly and the face is masked by black. The skin over the shoulders is grey. The nose is black.

CHOCOLATE WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by chocolate-brown. The skin over the shoulders is light grey. The face is masked by light brown. Pale mottling of the underbelly may be seen.The nose is dark liver, almost black.

BROWN WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light oak-brown. Some spines may also be banded by chocolate, but this is not preferred. A light mask is acceptable. The eyes have a light blue ring around the outer edges (the sclera). Mottling of the skin is not preferred and the skin over the shoulders is pink with a small amount of grey pigmentation. The nose is liver, mottled with black.

WHITE: (Cinnamon White) Between 95 to 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by pale cinnamon-brown. The face has no mask. The underbelly is white with no mottling. The ears are pale grey (silver). Skin on the shoulders is pink. The nose is liver.

DARK CINNICOT WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light cinnamon-brown and orange. The face has no mask. The eyes are black. The the skin over the shoulders is pink, as is the underbelly.The nose is liver, with a pink rim.

BLACK-EYED CINNICOT WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light cinnamon-brown and orange. The face has no mask. The eyes are black. The the skin over the shoulders is pink, as is the underbelly.The nose is evenly mottled with liver and pink

RUBY-EYED CINNICOT WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light cinnamon-brown and orange. The face has no mask. The eyes are dark ruby-red. The skin over the shoulders is pink, as is the underbelly.

CHAMPAGNE WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light orange with a light grey cast. The face has no mask.The eyes are red. The skin over the shoulders is pink, as is the underbelly. The nose is pink with a liver rim. The nose is evenly mottled with liver and pink

APRICOT WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light orange. The face has no mask. The eyes are red. The skin over the shoulders is pink, as is the underbelly. The nose is pink

ALBINO
Albinos are unique due to the total lack of pigmentation. The spines are all white with no banding. The face and fur are white. The skin is pink and the eyes are red. The nose is pink.

PINTO
Pinto is a colour pattern, rather than a colour and as such may appear on any coloured hedgehog. The Pinto pattern can be distinguished by a total lack of colour on the quills and skin beneath in distinct patches or spots over the hedgehog's back. Ideally, the white patches are to be symmetrical between one side of the hedgehog, divided down the length of the body by the dorsal, and the other. The remainder of the quills - those with coloured banding - remain consistent with the hedgehog's basic colouration.

ALGERIAN COLOURS

Although the term "Algerian'' is commonly used to refer to a species of hedgehog, the IHA also recognizes it as a separate colour category from that of the White-Bellied colours. A hedgehog exhibiting the colour traits of an Algerian may or may not exhibit the physical traits. (Larger body, longer nose and larger ears) Since the two species have been interbred to produce the domestic hedgehog, the only true trait of the Algerian species left is the colour as this does not mix with the colours of the White-Bellied species.

Algerian coloured hedgehogs can be easily distinguished by looking at the "eye" or "cheek" patches as shown on the left. If the hedgehog has cheek patches, then the hedgehog in question is in the Algerian colour range. If it does not, then the hedgehog is in the White-Bellied range. This is a far more accurate means of identification than the older method of looking for "cream" or off-white coloured quills, rather than the white quills of the White-Bellied species.

ALGERIAN BLACK: Spines are cream, widely banded by black with dark rust at the top and bottom. The skin on the shoulders is jet-black. There is a distinctive black mask that extends almost to the neck. The nose is black.

ALGERIAN DARK GREY: Spines are cream, banded by black with rust edges. The banding extends almost to the tip of the spines. The skin is almost jet black. The face mask is extensive and extends from beneath the eyes almost to the quill line beneath the ears. The overall appearance is that of rust-coloured spines. All other features are the same as BLACK ALGERIAN.

ALGERIAN GREY: Spines are cream, banded by black with rust edges. The skin is heavily mottled. The overall appearance is that of rust and cream coloured spines. The nose is black, the face has a dark mask and the cheek patches are a deep, golden-brown.

ALGERIAN CHOCOLATE: Spines are cream, banded by chocolate-brown. The skin is near-black, the mask is medium brown and the eye patches are brown to rich golden-brown. Mottling of the underbelly is extensive. The nose is dark, chocolate brown.

ALGERIAN BROWN: Spines are cream, banded by light brown. The skin is dark grey; the mask is medium brown with light golden brown cheek patches. There is light mottling of the underbelly. The nose is chocolate brown

ALGERIAN CINNAMON: Quills are cream, banded by rich cinnamon-orange. The skin is grey, the mask is pale with light brown cheek patches and the nose is chocolate brown with liver highlights. There is light mottling of the underbelly.

ALGERIAN DARK CINNICOT: Quills are cream, banded by dark cinnamon-orange spines as well as a small number of dark apricot banded spines. The skin is grey, the mask is pale with light brown cheek patches and the nose is liver, mottled with chocolate brown. There is no mottling of the underbelly.

ALGERIAN CINNICOT: Quills are cream, banded equally by cinnamon-orange spines and dark apricot banded spines. The skin is grey, the mask is pale with light brown cheek patches and the nose is liver, mottled lightly with chocolate brown. There is no mottling of the underbelly. The nose is liver, mottled with chocolate brown. There is no mottling of the underbelly

ALGERIAN CHAMPAGNE: Spines are cream banded by orange with a light grey cast. The face may be masked by light orange cheek patches. The eyes are black. The underbelly is white with some very pale mottling possible. Skin on the shoulders is grey- pink. The nose is grey-pink with a darker rim.

ALGERIAN APRICOT: Quills are cream, banded by pale orange. The skin is pink with a very pale hint of grey. There is no mask but there are very pale orange-brown cheek patches. The nose is pink with a pale liver rim. There is no mottling of the underbelly.

ALGERIAN SNOWFLAKE COLOURS

ALGERIAN BLACK SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and widely banded quills with black with dark rust at the top and bottom. The skin on the shoulders is jet-black. There is a distinctive black cheek patch that extends almost to the neck. The nose is black
.
ALGERIAN DARK GREY SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and by banded quills with black with rust edges. The banding extends almost to the tip of the spines. The skin is almost jet black. The cheek patch is extensive and extends from beneath the eyes almost to the quill line beneath the ears. The overall appearance is that of rust-coloured spines. All other features are the same as BLACK ALGERIAN.

ALGERIAN GREY SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and banded quills with black with rust edges. The skin is heavily mottled. The overall appearance is that of rust and cream coloured quills. The nose is black, the face has a dark mask and the cheek patches are a deep, golden-brown.

ALGERIAN CHOCOLATE SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and banded quills with chocolate-brown. The skin is near-black, the mask is medium brown and the cheek patches are brown to rich golden-brown. Mottling of the underbelly is extensive. The nose is dark, chocolate brown.

ALGERIAN BROWN SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and banded quills with light brown. The skin is dark grey, the mask is medium brown with light golden brown cheek patches. There is light mottling of the underbelly. The nose is chocolate brown.

ALGERIAN CINNAMON SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and banded quills with rich cinnamon-orange. The skin is grey, the mask is pale with light brown cheek patches and the nose is chocolate brown with liver highlights. There is light mottling of the underbelly

ALGERIAN DARK CINNICOT SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and banded quills with dark cinnamon-orange spines as well as a small number of dark apricot banded spines. The face is masked with orange cheek patches. The underbelly is white with some pale mottling possible. The eyes are black. Skin on the shoulders is grey-pink. The nose is brown with a lighter rim.

ALGERIAN CINNICOT SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and banded quills with an equal mix of cinnamon-orange spines and dark apricot banded spines. The face is masked with orange cheek patches. The underbelly is white with some pale mottling possible. The eyes are black.Skin on the shoulders is grey-pink. The nose is mottled with brown and grey-pink.

ALGERIAN CHAMPAGNE SNOWFLAKE: Spines are interspersed approximately 50/50 by solid cream quills with no bands and quills banded by orange with a light grey cast. The face may be masked by light orange cheek patches. The eyes are black.The underbelly is white with some very pale mottling possible. Skin on the shoulders is grey- pink. The nose is grey-pink with a darker rim.

ALGERIAN APRICOT SNOWFLAKE: Quills are cream, banded by pale orange. The skin is pink with a very pale hint of grey. The face may be masked by very light orange cheek patches. The underbelly is white. Skin on the shoulders is grey- pink. The eyes are black. The nose is grey-pink.

ALGERIAN WHITE COLOURS

The Double-White variant can be described in the same manner as any of the White colours with the exception of there being no banded quills anywhere on the body.

BLACK WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light black. Ears are black and the face is extensively masked by black and brown with cheek patches extending almost to the quill skirt. Skin over the shoulders is a purple-black. Mottling of the underbelly is extensive. The eyes are black. The nose is black.

ALGERIAN SILVER CHARCOAL WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by rusty-grey. Ears are black and the face is extensively masked by black and brown with cheek patches extending almost to the quill skirt. Skin over the shoulders is purple-black. Mottling of the underbelly is extensive. The eyes are black. The nose is black.

ALGERIAN CHARCOAL WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by black with rusty-brown edges. There is some mottling of the underbelly and the face is masked by black and brown with a golden-brown cheek patch. The skin over the shoulders is black. The eyes are black. The nose is black.

ALGERIAN CHOCOLATE WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by dark chocolate-brown. The skin over the shoulders is dark grey. The face is masked by light brown with a golden-brown cheek patch. The eyes are black. Mottling of the underbelly may be seen.

ALGERIAN BROWN WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by brown. Some spines may also be banded by chocolate, but this is not preferred. The face is masked by light brown with a brown cheek patch.The eyes have a light blue ring around the outer edges (the sclera). The eyes are black.The underbelly is white with some mottling possible and the skin over the shoulders is grey. The nose is chocolate-brown. The nose is chocolate-brown.

ALGERIAN CINNAMON WHITE: Between 95 to 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by orange. The face is masked by light brown with a brown cheek patch. The underbelly is white with some mottling possible. The eyes are black. Skin on the shoulders is grey-pink. The nose is brown.

ALGERIAN DARK CINNICOT WHITE: Between 95 to 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by dark and light orange. The face is masked with orange cheek patches. The underbelly is white with some pale mottling possible. The eyes are black. Skin on the shoulders is grey-pink. The nose is brown with a lighter rim.

ALGERIAN CHAMPAGNE WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light orange with a light grey cast. The face may be masked by light orange cheek patches. The eyes are black. The underbelly is white with some very pale mottling possible. Skin on the shoulders is grey- pink.The nose is grey-pink with a darker rim.

ALGERIAN APRICOT WHITE: Between 95 and 97% of the spines are solid white. The remainder are white, banded by light orange. The face may be masked by very light orange cheek patches. The underbelly is white. Skin on the shoulders is grey- pink. The eyes are black. The nose is grey-pink.

Hedgehogs: Proper Care and Feeding

2008-12-30T14:53:00.000-08:00

Hedgehogs are relatively low maintenance pets, but they still require care and a proper diet to stay healthy. Just as important, they need some exercise and interaction with their owners.

Feeding a hedgehog:

Hedgehogs are primarily insectivores which means that insects make up the largest part of their natural diet, but if given the chance they will eat carrion, eggs, fruit, and just about anything else they come across.

Their diets should contain 22% protein, 5% fat and 15%fiber. Never feed them raw meat or eggs. Hedgehogs are mildly lactose intolerant, so dairy products should be given sparingly, or not at all.

A good quality dry cat food is commonly chosen by owners. There are some commercial hedgehog food products, but they are not readily available in pet stores. The hedgehog’s diet can be supplemented with lean cooked chicken, fruit and vegetables. You can also include cooked fish like salmon or tuna, but don’t use canned fish because it has too much salt for hedgehogs.

Hedgehogs love mealworms, but they should not be given any more than one or two a day. Crickets, small amounts of hardboiled egg and baby foods can be given as occasional treats.

Be careful that you don't over-feed these extras treats, or you will end up with an obese hedgehog and health problems. Fresh water must always be available.

Proper care of a hedgehog:

Since your hedgehog is in limited space for most of the time and you can’t take him out for long walks, an exercise wheel provides a great way to help prevent obesity. It should be an open sided, solid surface wheel greater than 10 inches, at a minimum.

Hedgehogs need to be warm, generally above 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Sometimes a heating pad on its lowest setting can be used, but it should be under only part of the enclosure so your pet can get away from the heat if it gets too warm.

If the hedgehogs cage is kept clean they have very little odour. Some commercial foods tend to cause these little guys to have a stronger scent.

The recommended way to pick up a hedgehog is to place one hand at each side and then bring them gently together to cup him. Never grasp a hedgehog in a way that could allow any of your fingers to be caught in the middle should he decide to roll into a ball. Having your fingers stuck in the middle of a hedgehog ball is an extremely painful experience.

Housing and bedding:

Hedgehogs are quite adept at escaping their quarters. They can squeeze through any opening just a fraction bigger than their skull, and they will. Whatever cage or enclosure you choose, make sure it has openings too small for your pet to get through, or to get stuck in. Always avoid wire floors and be cautious about the spacing of wire sided cages - the narrower the better.

An enclosure should be no smaller than 2 feet x 3 feet and the bigger, the better. Aquariums, plastic commercial cages and even modified plastic storage bins can be used. Clear plastic bins can be modified to allow adequate ventilation by putting a row of holes around the top of the bin and in the lid.

Give your hedgehog someplace to hide, a secure place for him to go when he wants to get away from it all and have a nap. The den can be made from any cardboard box with a door cut in one end. A large piece of plumbing tube works well.

Bedding can be made with aspen shavings or even pine. Never use cedar. The aromatic oils in cedar have been known to cause respiratory distress and may be fatal to your pet. Some people use indoor outdoor carpeting (such as Astroturf) to line the cage, but you must use a heat source to seal the edges so threads don’t come loose. There are also recycled newspaper products normally available from your pet store.

A small shallow pan with dust free cat litter can be used for a litter box and may become the hedgehog’s primary bathroom area. Do not use clumping litter as it can stick to your hedgehog when he/she uses the litter box, forming almost a layer of cement that can quickly prevent urination.

Medical issues:

Hedgehogs have special health care needs, but they can be relatively easy to handle. The common hedgehog ailments such as obesity, quill loss, tattered ears, and foot injuries can be prevented through proper diet, exercise, and routine care.

A common problem with pet hedgehogs is an infestation of mites. Mites are spread mainly by contact with another infested animal, or contaminated bedding. Wood shavings are a frequent culprit, which is another reason why an alternate form of bedding should be used. The only treatments to get rid of mites are those available from your veterinarian.

Wobbly Hedgehog Syndrome (WHS) is a genetic disorder that causes progressive paralysis similar to humans MS (multiple sclerosis). Hedgehogs slowly become paralyzed and there is no known cure.

Eyes can be lost to quill pokes if more than one hedgehog is kept together.

Tooth loss and wear is common in older hedgehogs. There can be weight loss in extreme cases of tooth decay. Some people say that an all-hard food diet can cause premature tooth wear, so a mixed diet may help with this problem.

Hedgehogs actually share many diseases that humans have. These include cancer, fatty liver disease and diseases of the heart and arteries. The fatty liver disease and cardiovascular problems are believed to be caused by bad diet, just as they are in humans. The hedgehog will greedily eat foods that are high in fat and sugar, but their metabolism is adapted for low-fat, protein-rich insects and this can lead to problems of obesity.

Should you see your pet hedgehog acting, or eating, differently than usual, then a visit to your veterinarian is suggested. Some common sense in feeding and caring for your new pet will mean many years of playful enjoyment.

Hedgehogs: The Newest Trend in Pets

2008-12-30T14:26:00.000-08:00

More and more households are becoming homes to this newly discovered pet. They don’t require a lot of maintenance, or even an over abundance of attention. Sleeping most of the time and easily entertained when they’re awake, hedgehogs may just be the ideal pet.

What is a hedgehog?

There are 16 species of this small mammal, but none are native to North America. The hedgehogs normally kept as pets are a mix of the African white-bellied hedgehog and the Algerian hedgehog. They are smaller than the European breeds and often referred to as ‘pygmies’, although African Pygmy hedgehogs is more a colourful descriptive given by breeders than a true species name. Hedgehogs come in over 90 color varieties.

Characteristics of a hedgehog:

Hedgehogs have remained largely unchanged since the time of dinosaurs. They are compact creatures measuring 5-8 inches long with a lifespan of 4-6 years. Rows of short prickly spines cover their backs and their bellies are layered with soft fur. When threatened, hedgehogs roll in to a tight, spine covered ball. These quills are modified hairs. They are not very sharp and do not have barbs like those of a porcupine. And they can’t ‘throw’ them. An average hedgehog will be covered in 5000 - 7000 quills. A hedgehog with spines erect feels somewhat like a rough scrub brush.

They do not have scent glands like ferrets and there is usually very little odour as long as their cage or pen is kept reasonably clean. Hedgehogs tend to be quite nervous animals and will generally duck their head down to present a very prickly forehead to any possible enemies. This action may be accompanied by rapid snuffling or snorting.

Poor eyesight is compensated for with excellent senses of smell and hearing. They explore with their mouths and anything that smells interesting, including your fingers, will probably receive a lick, or nip. The teeth are fairly short and sharp, but nothing extreme. Next to their quills, the two most noticeable traits of a healthy hedgehog is its moist, active noses and large ears.

Hedgehogs have their own unique means of communication. Soft purring and whistling is a sign of contentment, much like a cat; puffing sounds indicate displeasure and are usually accompanied by snorting or sneezing; hissing and clicking tells someone to get away, or that your pet is tired of playing with you; snuffling is done when it contentedly investigates things; nursing hoglets (babies) and breeding males will chirp; screaming is not a good thing and indicates physical pain, fear, or sometimes anger.

Some hedgehogs actually snore and will often sniff, snort, and chirp while in dreamland. They also have a clear body language – a rolled up ball with spines erect shows fear, or displeasure, while upright quills on the forehead only is simply a sign of caution and uncertainty.

Self Annointing:

One of the oddest traits hedgehogs have is their habit of “self-anointing”. When encountering a new or strong smell or substance, hedgehogs will often lick the matter and produce foamy saliva which it applies to all or part of its quills. Sometimes this ritual is quite dramatic and a hedgehog will break out in contortions and drool profusely.

Although no one is exactly sure why hedgehogs do this, the common theory is that the hedgehog, which is resistant to many toxins, is spreading a potential poison, or camouflaging smell, on their bodies for protection. Whatever the reason, it’s not a matter for concern and some hedgehogs will do it more than others.

Do they make good pets?

If you want it to chase balls and wrestle with you, then no, a hedgehog will not be the kind of pet for you. If you’re satisfied with a pet that simply lounges on your lap and keeps you quiet company, then yes, hedgehogs will be a good choice.

Because they’re timid creatures, households with small children and rambunctious pets may not be a suitable environment for a hedgehog. Hedgehogs should be kept indoors at normal room temperature (65 to 80oF).

Hedgehogs are low maintenance. It can be fed a good quality dry cat food, or formulated hedgehog food. They don't bark, climb curtains, or chew on furniture. People that are normally allergic to cats are rarely allergic to hedgehogs. Despite their solitary nature, hedgehogs can become very affectionate with their owners and will even snuggle in your lap and watch TV with you.

They have distinct personalities and are surprisingly intelligent, fun to play with and easily entertained. These pets love to play with tunnels, mazes and specially designed hedgehog wheels. A simple toilet paper tube will make a good toy and you’ll probably find them sticking their heads inside and running about the floor.

Do they get along with other pets?

Hedgehogs are well-equipped to defend themselves from other pets and seem to tolerate them quite well. Cats tend to quickly develop a healthy respect for the quills of a hedgehog and keep a respectful distance. Dogs are generally quite wary of the hedgehog’s armour, but large, energetic dogs may injure a hedgehog in rough play despite the quills.

Other pets like rats, ferrets and guinea pigs are tolerated by hedgehogs. Ferrets can be pesky, but will quickly learn to respect the quills. Overall, hedgehogs are quite amiable and non-aggressive and are perfectly happy to be left alone.

Picking the right hedgehog:

Try to choose one that will allow you to be pick it up and maybe even turn on its back without rolling into a tight ball and staying there.

Look for bright eyes, clear nostrils, and healthy looking skin, quills and fur. Watch out for flaky skin, missing quills, discharge around the eyes or nose, or evidence of diarrhoea. Also make sure the hedgehog is in good body condition - neither too thin nor overweight (a good place to check is around the legs - watch out for rolls of fat as obesity is a common problem).

Being timid creatures, it will take a while for your hedgehog to warm up to you. Be patient and give it regular attention. Before long, this shy little critter will be your buddy.

Ferret Website & Resource Links

2008-12-28T21:36:00.000-08:00

There’s a large number of websites, forums and other resource links pertaining to ferrets. These few will open the door to as much reading and involvement as you’d like.

Ferret Harmony
http://www.ferretharmony.com/

Forum and chat area for ferret owners and lovers. Let’s you showcase your pet(s).

Ferret Village
http://www.ferretvillage.org/

Community for ferret owners. Many features and resource areas, including forums, photo galleries, chat, classified and a substantial list of websites and forums on ferrets.

Ferretopia Ferret Forum
http://www.ferretopia.proboards51.com/

Another site with a lot of forums to discuss whatever is on your mind regarding ferrets. Also a decent resource list to sites offering ferret supplies as well as places to purchase these pets.

Ferrets Anonymous
http://www.ferretsanonymous.com/index.html

Although a California based website, it does have a lot of resource information for ferret owners, including some good medical information sites.

The colors of a ferret

2008-12-28T21:25:00.000-08:00

Right out of the pages of animal world’s best fashion magazines, ferrets bring a large array of coat colors with them.

Albino is white with red eyes and a pink nose.

Dark-eyed white (sometimes called a black-eyed white) often has very light eyes and can possibly be confused with an albino.

Sable has rich dark brown guard hairs with golden highlights and a white to golden undercoat.

Black sable has blue-black guard hairs with no golden or brownish hues. It has a white to cream undercoat.

Chocolate is described as warm dark to milk chocolate brown with a white to golden or amber undercoat and highlights.

Cinnamon is a rich light reddish brown and a golden to white undercoat. This can also be used to describe a ferret with light, tan guard hairs and pinkish or reddish highlights.

Champagne is straight tan in color.

Silver starts out grey, or white, with a few black hairs. The ferret may or may not have a mask. There is a tendency for the guard hair to lighten to white evenly over the body. As a ferret ages each progressive coat change has a higher percentage of white rather than dark guard hairs. Eventually the ferret could be all white.

Blaze and badger ferrets have a white stripe on the top of their heads. Both are prone to deafness, although nobody can say why.

Panda has a fully white head.

Siamese has an even darker color on the legs and tail than usual and a V-shaped mask.

Self is nearly solid in color.

Medical conditions of a ferret

2008-12-28T16:43:00.000-08:00

Like any animal, ferrets are not immune to disease and sickness, but there are two medical conditions that require special attention in a ferret: they are extremely vulnerable to canine distemper and their coming into heat can be dangerous.

Bacterial Infections:
Bacteria can produce a variety of diseases in ferrets - botulism, tuberculosis, dysentery and abscesses and infections caused by bite wounds and other injuries. Use of antibiotics is usually sufficient for treatment of most of these conditions.

Canine Distemper:
The initial signs of the distemper appear 7-10 days after exposure to the virus and include a thick mucus and pus-laden discharge from the eyes and nostrils. A rash will usually appear under the chin and in the groin area and the foot pads become thickened.

There is no effective treatment for canine distemper in ferrets and they will die 3-4 weeks after exposure. Preventative vaccinations must be given at 6-8 weeks of age. Booster vaccinations are needed 2-3 weeks later. After that, it’s yearly boosters.

Canine Hepatitis:
There is no indication that ferrets are susceptible to canine hepatitis.

Canine Parvo-Virus:
There is no definite evidence that ferrets are susceptible to this condition, so vaccination against the diseases is probably not necessary.

Cardiomyopathy:
A condition of the heart muscle seen in dogs, cats and ferrets where the muscle walls of the heart becomes thickened, reducing the ability of the heart to pump adequate quantities of blood to the rest of the body. Signs include inappetence (failure to eat, or to not eat enough), fatigue, increased periods of sleep, intolerance to exercise, fainting and shortness of breath. The cause for this condition is unknown. All ferrets older than 3 years should have a chest x-ray to screen for this disease.

Cataracts:
These are fairly common in pet ferrets (young and old), but their significance and genetic predisposition are not fully understood.

Feline Distemper:
Some say that ferrets do not get feline distemper, but if your pet is to have prolonged contact with cats then it;s suggested they be vaccinated. The vaccine cannot harm the animal and the decision to vaccinate or not is yours. Most veterinarians give a combination canine distemper-feline distemper vaccine.

Feline Leukemia Virus:
There is a possibility that ferrets may become infected with feline leukemia virus, but there is no solid evidence of this. Cancer can be one possible result of an infection, but researchers believe that leukemia and related diseases in ferrets may be caused by a virus or viruses specific to ferrets.

Heartworm Disease:
Heartworm is an illness transmitted by mosquitoes and seen mostly in dogs. You must carefully consider the pros and cons of preventive therapy for this disease as some ferrets may have adverse reactions to the drug used for Heartworm prevention.

Heat Periods:
The breeding season for female ferrets is March through August and they can come into heat more than once during that period. Swelling of the external genitalia indicates the beginning of your ferret’s heat period. If the female in heat does not engage in copulation, she will remain in heat for up to 160 days. If she is bred, the swelling of the external genitalia usually regresses to normal within 2-3 weeks after copulation.

Continued sexual heat is dangerous and life-threatening because it usually results in bone marrow suppression. This causes severe anaemia and decreases in the number of circulating white blood cells. Any female ferret not intended for breeding should be spayed at 6-8 months of age.

Heat Stroke:
Lacking sweat glands, ferrets have a problem maintaining normal body temperature in extremely warm temperatures. On days where the temperature goes beyond 90 degrees F, providing ample shade and spraying your ferret will help reduce the likelihood of heat stroke.

Influenza:
Interesting enough, ferrets are subject to infection with several strains of human influenza virus. Signs of this illness may mimic those of canine distemper - listlessness, fever, nasal discharge, inappetence (reduction in eating habits) and sneezing. Influenza usually passes in 5 days with no after effects. Treatment with a specific anti-influenza drug may be recommended.

Parasitism:
Most of the external parasites of domestic dogs and cats (fleas, mange mites, ear mites, etc.) can cause disease in ferrets. Periodic fecal examinations should be performed by a veterinarian to check for such parasites. Appropriate treatment can then be given, if needed.

Rabies:
Ferrets are susceptible to rabies and can transmit the virus, but it is rare compared to dogs and cats. Infected ferrets are believed to carry ‘dumb’ rabies and die very quickly after exposure, so the risk of spreading it is very small. Researchers are in the early stages of exploring the possibility that ferrets pass the rabies virus through their saliva. A rabies vaccine is now available for use in ferrets, so be safe and have it done.

Ringworm:
This is a fungal disease of the skin similar to athlete's foot. It has been reported in young ferrets and may be transmitted by infected cats. Products intended for use with cats are usually safe for a ferret.

Urinary Stones:
Urinary stones within the kidneys, or urinary bladder, can be serious. Signs include blood in the urine, inability to urinate, a swollen and painful abdomen, vomiting, listlessness and inappetance (when they don’t eat, or don’t’ enough as much as they need). Surgery is usually necessary to correct the problem. A special diet may eliminate certain types of stones, or prevent recurrence.

Whenever your pet is not acting, or eating, as they normally do then it is suggested that you seek proper advice from a veterinarian.

What is a ferret?

2008-12-28T14:38:00.000-08:00

Does your ferret belong to the rat family, or is it a relative of the weasel?

Although many people think that a ferret is a rodent, it is not. Ferrets are cousins of weasels, skunks and otters. They are also close relatives to mink, badgers and polecats. Some see them resembling a mix between a cat and a dog, with stronger canine characteristics.

Not unlike most of today’s pets, the history of the ferret and its domestication is vague, but thought to relate to hunting. Ferrets have been domesticated for at least 2500 years. In the United Kingdom and some other parts of the world, they are still used for hunting rabbits. During World War II they were used to protect grain stores from rodents in the United States. The practice of using ferrets for hunting is now illegal in the U.S. and Canada.

Although ferrets are fast becoming a very popular pet, too many people don’t understand what a pet ferret is and they’re seen as wild animals like raccoons or skunks, rather than a domestic species like housecats. This fundamental problem has caused them to be banned in certain states, counties, and municipalities. They are illegal in California and Hawaii, but actions are in place to change this.

Another popular misconception is that ferrets pose a serious rabies danger. It's very difficult for a ferret to catch rabies and when one does it dies very quickly, so the danger is extremely small. There is a ferret rabies vaccine which has been shown to be effective.

There have not been any confirmed cases of feral ferrets (ferrets escaping and becoming wild) in the U.S. and the few deliberate attempts to introduce domestic ferrets to the wild have failed. Domestic ferrets have long ago lost all natural instincts and cannot survive on their own in the wild.

Today, the ferret’s main purpose in life is that of a loving, devoted pet.

Ferrets – A Guide to Proper Feed and Care

2008-12-26T17:16:00.000-08:00

A few minutes a day, some basic knowledge, and a little common sense are all it takes to make sure your ferret has a healthy, active life.

The right food:
For a balanced diet, their meal should have 30% protein and 15% fat. High quality cat foods like Iams, Science Diet, or ProPlan have the nutrients they need. An 8 pound (3.6 kg) bag of dry food will last a ferret several months, so the cost of feeding higher grade foods is quite reasonable.

Soft cat foods normally don’t contain enough protein and is not hard enough to remove decay causing plaque from their teeth. Stick with the dry. Dog foods lack the nutrients needed by your ferret, so stay away from these as well.

Vitamin supplements:
Ferretone and Linatone consist mainly of cod liver oil that supplies the ferret with natural oils for a shiny coat and healthy skin. Ferrets always seem to be “itchy’, so the EFA’s (Essential Fatty Acids) added to their diet can help keep the skin ‘lubricated’ from the inside and reduce the amount of itching. Ferretone or Linatone should be available in most pet stores. It’s always a good idea to ask your vet about proper supplements and foods when you first have your ferret examined.

Good treats:
Fruits and vegetables are enjoyed by most ferrets. Try a slice of banana, raisins, pieces of pear, freeze dried liver (cat treats), green beans – almost anything actually, if given in small pieces. Your ferret will let you know what’s favoured and what’s not.

Avoid these things:
Most ferrets love milk and ice cream, but the lactose in cow’s milk gives them diarrhoea and they can easily dehydrate. Goat’s milk is okay, so give them that instead.

Limit high fibre foods like raisins, bananas, prunes, oatmeal, apples, and anything with bran in it. Just like humans, excess fibre can also give your ferret diarrhoea. A lick of your peppermint stick will be fine, but use common sense in giving too much sugar. Chocolate is to be avoided. It contains xanthines which may be toxic to ferrets in large enough quantities. Nobody’s positive about this, but it’s better to be on the side of caution. Give them an occasional chocolate chip, but stop there.

Grooming:
Like all animals, ferrets have their own odour. Theirs is a distinct musky smell caused by natural oils emanating from glands throughout the skin. De-scenting will not change this. To control your ferret's scent, the best thing to do is to change the bedding every few days and keep the litter pans clean. Most of the musk stays in the cloth, on the litter or paper, and on your floors and furniture, not on the ferret himself.

Frequent bathing is not necessary and won’t rid them of their odour. Too many baths can cause dry skin, especially in the winter months. Bathing a couple of times per year should be sufficient.

They do shed hair (fur, actually) with spring and fall being the worst. Ferrets don’t need brushing, but it helps reduce the amount of hair on your furniture and clothes during shedding seasons.

Ferrets groom themselves and this will mean hairballs. A hairball remedy like Laxatone or Petromalt helps if given regularly. It also helps them pass the rubber bands, Styrofoam and other litter that they love to eat.

Nails become very sharp and should be cut every 2-3 weeks, at least. Use regular nail clippers that you use for yourself, or you can buy special ferret clippers.

Bedding:
Pet stores often use wood shavings in ferret pens which isn’t a good practice. They can choke on the wood chips, so it’s best to use an old towel, baby blanket, or t-shirt as bedding. It’s far more comfortable than sleeping on wood.

Those are the fundamentals to proper care and feeding of your ferret. Now all you have to do is add love and you’ve got yourself a healthy, playful companion for a long, long time.

Ferrets – Are They Your Kind of Pet?

2008-12-26T16:25:00.000-08:00

Who can resist those cuddly little creatures with their mischievous look and adorable personalities? They’re great for apartments and you can teach them to walk on a leash like a cat or dog. They’ll even do tricks if you take the time to train them.

There’s no question that ferrets make good pets, but that doesn’t mean they’re a good pet for you. Your lifestyle and their curious, intrusive nature may not be a compatible match.
Ferrets sleep 18-20 hours a day, but when awake will demand almost all of your attention. They are extremely playful and, unlike puppies and kittens, don’t lose much of this friskiness as they get older. If neglected, they will become depressed and lose that good-natured temperament

The word ‘ferret’ is synonymous with search, hunt, rummage, and furrow. That pretty well describes your little pet and should give you a decent indication why it’s not such a good idea to leave them home alone. Nothing is safe from this very inquisitive and remarkably determined animal. They can get into areas that you never dreamed and any small, dark place like sofa cushions, dryer hoses and vents become an ideal retreat. These crafty rascals have an insatiable curiosity about everything around them and will eagerly steal any objects they can carry and hoard them behind furniture and under chairs.

If there’s a way to get into boxes, bags, and trash cans they’ll find it. Houseplants are not immune to their antics and you may come home to find your floors covered in dirt after an afternoon of happy digging. Carpets may also become a target for their need to burrow.

Except for birds, fish, rodents and lizards, most ferrets get along fairly well with other pets like dogs and cats. Like everything else, your pets’ toys and favourite chews are open to the ferrets thieving ways and will be quickly whisked away and hidden. When it comes to children, small kids and ferrets are both very excitable and putting the two of them together may be too much. Of course, a child’s toy is fair game and if not chewed up will probably be buried along with all the other treasure.

Coats will be shed twice a year and ferrets do have a musky odour that is not unpleasant, but distinctive and not liked by everybody. De-scenting will not change this. They will use a litter box, but many aren’t quite as good about it as a cat.

It’s quite easy to love these charismatic animals, but they will command more of your time and attention than a cat or dog. If you’re prepared for the higher maintenance and ferret proofing of your home, then a ferret will make a most enjoyable companion.